A lively historical city and beating heart of Emilia Romagna, Bologna is a rich and rewarding destination. Characterised by the red bricks that make up most of its buildings (which include Europe's first university), Bologna vaunts some of the best food - tortellini and Parmesan cheese to name a couple - in Italy.
Riserva di
Bologna
Riserva di
Bologna
The Educated, the Red and the Fat
Discover all the excellence in this Riserva
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Culture
Food & Wine
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Curiosity
The Sound of Music
Tagliavini: an Incredible Collection of Ancient Instruments
Whether you know your instruments or not, the Collezione Tagliavini is one of those places you can’t miss when in Bologna.
Housed in the complex of St. Columba, the museum has over 70 instruments on display including clavichords, harpsichords, organs, spinets, pianos and other wind instruments.
The instruments are all in perfect working condition and some are rare or unique pieces; they have all been restored by locals master artisans.
A specific section is dedicated to instruments of the popular tradition dating from the 16th to the 19th centuries, while there is also a dedicated library with texts regarding music themes.
Another reason not to miss this unique museum is the collection’s breathtaking setting: the San Colombano ecclesiastical complex, built starting from the 7th century. Recently renovated, the church still displays its original frescoes and a even a medieval crypt, rediscovered in 2007.
Once inside, you’ll be transported into a surreal dimension of beauty and harmony between music, architecture and art.
Don't forget that the museum hosts regular concerts; stay on the lookout for dates as the majestic setting and timeless sounds of these instruments make each concert a once in a lifetime experience!
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A Serious Business
Tortellini
A Serious Business
Tortellini
While many have probably been lucky enough to taste Tortellini at least once in their lives, few know that both the making-process of the typical bolognese stuffed pasta and the recipe of the stuffing have been officially registered.
The first, in 2008, by the Dotta Confraternita del Tortellino, while the stuffing has been registered both by the Confraternita and the Italian Academy of Cuisine in 1974. Regardless of this, every Italian woman over 50 has a recipe of her own, and the result - though it comes as no surprise - is always an empty plate.
Tortellini are ring-shaped, and this has sometimes earned them an alternative name: ombelico, or belly-button. Typically served in a light broth, these savoury pasta-bites are usually stuffed with a mix of meat and parmesan cheese.
Rigorously hand-made, the famous tortellini are said to have been inspired by a noble-woman's beauty.
Legend goes that Lucrezia Borgia had to spend a night at an inn in the countryside. The host, dumbfounded by her beauty, couldn't resist getting another look at her before going to sleep. He peeked through the keyhole as she was getting ready for bed, but could only see her navel. Nevertheless, it was such a beautiful sight that he was inspired to create the delicious tortellini we now appreciate today.
If you’re looking to try some for yourself, Bologna has a few typical restaurants that, over the years, have earned themselves a name. Among these are: Ristorante Leoni, Ristorante Al Cambio and Atti, this last one great for a quick lunch.
Any suggestions?
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The Leaning Towers
of Bologna
Historical Towers
of Bologna
The Leaning Towers of Bologna
Historical Towers of Bologna
Between the 13th and 14th centuries, Bologna was most likely the Italian city with the highest number of towers. Some historians claim that, at its noble peak, Bologna had as many as 180 towers overlooking the city.
These peculiar buildings had both defensive and dominative purposes, as noble families would compete to build the highest tower as a symbol of their power and wealth.
After the 13th century, many of these edifices were destroyed and today, just over 20 towers remain standing.
Among these, the most famous ones are Torre degli Asinelli and the leaning Garisenda, both situated at the heart of Bologna's historical centre.
Although the one in Pisa may be more famous, the 48-meter Torre Garisenda leans by more than 13 meters. If you're the adventurous type, it'll come as bad news that the leaning Garisenda is not open for visits.
You can, however, climb the 498 steps inside Torre degli Asinelli to compensate... staggering birds-eye views of Bologna are guaranteed!
If that's not enough and you’d like to get some more exercise going up and down countless flights of stairs, go for Torre Prendiparte. A private-owned tower in the centre of the city - just a 5 minute walk from the other two -, Torre Prendiparte offers visits and accommodation, as well as an exclusive restaurant (reservations must be made in advance). Happy climbing!
Any suggestions?
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Creative City Planning
Bologna's Colonnaded Walkways
Creative City Planning
Bologna's Colonnaded Walkways
Bologna has more than 40km of colonnaded walkways running through the city, some dating as far back as the beginning of the 12th century.
In that period, Bologna’s population began to expand, as the University was created and trade blossomed. It became necessary to amplify existing homes; the solution became to create arcades on the ground floor to support new sections of existing houses.
Some arcades were made from brick, while others were wooden supports.
Today, eight wooden arcades from the 12th and 13th centuries still survive, and can be found in the city’s central streets such as Strada Maggiore, Via Marsala and Via del Carro. Wooden arcades are historical eye-candies, so be sure to include these streets in your stroll in Bologna's ancient city-centre.
Considered by some to be artistically less noteworthy than other more modern, frescoed stone arcades, Bologna’s wooden walkways are impressive for their excellent state of preservation and are definitely worth a look.
When planning an on-foot route around the city centre, it’s a good idea to try to include as many portici as you can in your itinerary.
When there, remember to look up: most brick arcades have beautiful, intricate frescoes that many miss!
Any suggestions?
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The Beautiful Bolognese Hills
Colli Bolognesi
The Beautiful Bolognese Hills
Colli Bolognesi
Just outside the city of Bologna lie gorgeous hills of incredible tranquillity: the ‘Colli Bolognesi’.
A popular Sunday-trip destination for families and couples, time the Colli Bolognesi are so famous for their beauty that they even earned themselves a place in Italian pop-culture with the song '50 Special'. The title refers to a popular type of Vespa, and the singer dreams of riding it along the Bolognese hills, have a listen:
If you don’t mind the walk, there’s an 8km medium-difficulty itinerary that starts from the San Michele in Bosco park and goes right up to to Parco Forte di Bandiera.
The trail takes approximately 3.30 hours and gives you the chance to see the beautiful hills up-close. Whether you’re looking for some peace of mind or a chance to take a long walk, the Colli Bolognesi are a great way to experience Italian nature.
Any suggestions?
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Say Cheese!
Parmigiano Reggiano
Say Cheese!
Parmigiano Reggiano
Parmesan, today, is a world-renowned ingredient for dainty dishes but its history goes back centuries.
The first records of Parmigiano Reggiano appeared around 1100 a.c. when Benedictine monasteries in the restricted area of Bibbiano started producing a hard-grain cheese made exclusively from fresh, local milk.
The production quickly spread to the entire area of Reggio Emilia and the particularly tasty, grainy cheese soon became so popular that it was mentioned in Boccaccio’s Decameron (1349). The famous name derives from the cheese’s production areas, which are comprised of the provinces of Parma, Reggio Emilia, Bologna, Modena, and Mantova.
Only the cheese produced in these localities and from certified farms, which use traditional production methods, can call their product ‘Parmigiano Reggiano’.
If you’re interested to see how it’s produced, the official Parmigiano Reggiano site organises visits to certified dairies, where you will see the expert cheese masters at work. The visit is free of charge, but you must book 20 days in advance and select the area you’d like to visit. You can choose between Parma, Modena and Bologna, Reggio Emilia and Mantua.
There’s also a Parmigiano Reggiano museum in the province of Parma, with items and machinery on display dating back to the second half of the 19th century.
Any suggestions?
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Watching Over Bologna
San Luca Sanctuary
Watching Over Bologna
San Luca Sanctuary
Perched on a forested hill (known as Colle della Guardia), the Sanctuary of the Madonna of San Luca is situated 300 metres above the city of Bologna.
Overlooking the red-bricks of the underlying city with its celestial benevolence, the Basilica has, over the years, become a landmark of the Bolognese landscape.
While the sanctuary can be reached by car or by a dedicated tourist train (the San Luca Express), the most authentic way to approach San Luca is on foot, under the longest portico in the world. With over 3,8km of pavement and over 666 arcades, the sight of San Luca at the end is sure to be a rewarding apparition.
Inside, the church houses a representation of the Virgin Mary, supposedly painted by Luke the Evangelist. Brought to Bologna in the 12th century from the Middle East, legends goes that it was a pilgrim from the Byzantine empire who brought it along with him.
Originally, the portico was built to protect the icon when paraded up the hill during the yearly procession from the Cathedral of San Pietro - which lies in the centre of Bologna - all the way up to the sanctuary.
If you’re looking to burn off all the delicious tortellini and mortadella, hiking to the top of San Luca is the perfect activity! The Basilica is also a perfect picture spot, so make sure to take your camera with you.
Any suggestions?
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This Room is
a Pigsty
Pig Farming in
Emilia Romagna
This Room is a Pigsty
Pig Farming in Emilia Romagna
An undisputed authority in terms of cold cuts, Emilia-Romagna is the key Italian region for cured meat products.
Before artificial refrigeration, meat was cured to preserve it over a long period of time. Back then, animals were very precious: in peasant tradition, meat was eaten once or twice a week at the very most.
Livestock was raised independently by each family and usually consisted in hens, rabbits and, if the family was wealthy enough, a cow or a pig.
These last two were considered to be particularly fine meats. Only one per year was slaughtered, and the meat had to be somehow preserved for the months to follow. That’s why the practice of making insaccati (literally, ‘bagged’) came about.
Pig farming can be traced back to Roman times, when farming techniques were consolidated for this type of animal.
Pork and beef were preserved by being ground, spiced with pepper, salt and herbs and put into the animals’ cleaned intestines. The output (today, mainly mortadella and salami in Emilia Romagna) was then left hanging from the ceiling in a cool and airy room, in order for it to dry as quickly as possible.
Air prevented mould from forming, while cool temperatures inhibited the spread of bacteria and rotting.
Today, pig-farming remains a key sector for the area's economy and high demands have led to a spread of more intensive farming. There are still, however, a number of traditional, family-run farms that raise pigs with a higher respect of nature and animal dignity.
If you are looking to buy some of the best products of the area you could try the following shops, which still produce salumi according to tradition and using only the best ingredients:
- Pasquini & Brusiani: via delle Tofane 38, Bologna
- Scapin: via Santo Stefano 88/A, Bologna
- Franceschini: via Valle Del Samoggia 6927, Castello di Serravalle (BO)
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Pub, the Italian Way
Osteria del Sole
Pub, the Italian Way
Osteria del Sole
If you’re looking to taste some traditional wine in a no-frills, local context, try the Osteria del Sole in the centre of Bologna.
An Osteria is a traditional Italian pub where only wine is served.
And by only wine, an oste (host) means no food and most of all, no water. Today, many restaurants call themselves 'osterie' to recall traditions, but most have shed the ‘no-food-no-water’ rule in order to meet new consumer behaviours.
If you are curious to try what an old osteria was like, go for the Osteria del Sole, found in Vicolo Ranocchi 1/D. Situated among small shops, this curious pub has been serving wine since 1465. Its setting, among Bologna's ancient streets, reflects the impressive history the Osteria shares daily with its customers.
In respect of traditions, no food is served, but you can bring your own meal and order wine to go with it.
But beware: those who ask for water will receive a pitiless treatment!
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The Largest
Cold-Cut
Out There
Mortadella
The Largest Cold-Cut Out There
Mortadella
Mortadella is the epitome of Bologna. The cold cut, usually flavoured with whole grains of black pepper and pistachios, is slowly cooked in special ovens for periods that range from two hours to more than a day. Cooking makes mortadella firm and consents the lardons (the squares of fat evenly distributed in the mixture) to not fall out during cutting.
Originally prepared using a mortar and pestle, mortadella probably owes its name to these utensils and is thought to have been already consumed during Roman times, as what was then called farcimen mirtatum.
Commonly referred to as 'la grassa' (the fat), mortadella contains a minimum of 15% pork fat... but its taste is worth every bit of sin!
Today, it’s not uncommon to see mortadelle up to 3 metres long and weighing around 500 kilos. One specimen recently reached an astounding 8 metres for a featherweight of more than 2000 kilos!
A tip: if you're used to referring to this cold-cut as 'baloney', be sure to not let this slip while in Bologna!
Best served at room temperature in thin slices or small dices, mortadella is traditionally accompanied by gnocco fritto (delicious fried bread dough), either as an appetiser or as a main course.
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Not Sweet
Enough for
the Romans
Pignoletto Wine
Not Sweet Enough for the Romans
Pignoletto Wine
An indigenous grape variety of Emilia Romagna, Pignoletto grapes make a homonymous wine known as the "King of the Colli Bolognesi".
With references to this grape going as far back in time as texts written by Pliny the Elder in the 1st century AD, Pignoletto is one of the oldest wines produced in the area around Bologna.
Although not appreciated by the romans due to its lack of sweetness, today Pignoletto is widely accepted as an excellent apéritif wine. Its beautiful pale yellow colour enhances perception of its well-balanced bouquet and persistent palate.
A true Pingoletto is made from a minimum 85% of Pignoletto grapes, with the remaining grapes coming from permitted grape varieties in the Colli Bolognesi DOC area.
Best when drunk young, the recommended serving temperature of Pignoletto is from 8° to 10° C.
Elegant and light, Pignoletto pairs well with typical starters of Emilia Romagna: tigelle, young cheeses and cold-cuts, as well as tortellini in their typical savoury broth.
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A Pipe-Master
at Work
Bottega Alberto
Bonfiglioli
A Pipe-Master at Work
Bottega Alberto Bonfiglioli
Artisanal pipe making is an art that risks extinction. Most of the pipe-masters left in Italy work in Sardegna and Sicilia, producing objects made of characteristic native wood.
But finding a pipe-maker in the centre of a city is nowhere near common. Seeing Alberto Bonfiglioli at work in his laboratory-shop at the heart of Bologna is a real treat for the eyes of connoisseurs and the curious alike.
Alberto makes his pipes according to the best traditions of Italian artisans, being very careful about the drying and aging of his briar blocks before turning them into his signature artwork pipes.
"I have been making pipes since 1974", recalls Alberto. And his mastery is evident.
A typical characteristic of Alberto's pipes is a relatively short tenon, which some feel makes the cleaning of the shank somewhat easier than pipes with normal tenons.
Alberto usually attends two pipe shows a year in the United States: the Chicagoland show in May and the Richmond, Virginia show in October.
In 2008, Alberto was even named a "Doctor of Pipes" at the Chicagoland show, bringing his all-Italian excellence to light.
If you are eager to see him at work, stop by via Bertiera 8/a and enjoy a chat in his shop full of memories and souvenirs.
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Two-Wheeled
Red Passion
Ducati
Two-Wheeled Red Passion
Ducati
Borgo Panigale, 1935: the Cavalieri Ducati brothers, Adriano, Bruno and Marcello, began building the Ducati Factory. What was just a grouping of farms and country houses, has since then become the home of the “Reds of Borgo Panigale”.
However, not everyone knows that the origins of Ducati are in the heart of Bologna. The company, Società Scientifica Radio Brevetti Ducati (Ducati’s original name), was founded on July 4th, 1926. The first headquarters were in the centre of town, on Via Collegio di Spagna 9, right next door to an institute for Spanish students in Bologna. There, the Ducati brothers rented three rooms on the ground floor to start their business, while their initial workshop was located in the basement of their family’s villa, on Viale Guidotti, 51.
Their business grew exponentially and in 1931, the three brothers had to expand their workshop to Villa Lydia, transforming it into the first Ducati factory. Eventually, Villa Lydia and the offices in the centre of Bologna were too small for Ducati so the brothers decided to move their operations to Borgo Panigale.
The first stone of the Borgo Panigale factory was placed on June 1, 1935.
When the Borgo Panigale offices were opened, production grew exponentially. During this time, Ducati was one of the most advanced and well-organised companies in Bologna, with more than 3,500 total employees.
The quality of Ducati wasn’t only based on the perfection of its products, but also on the high level of services provided to its employees; there were two cafeterias, one for the employees and one for the middle and top managers, two reading rooms, a professional school, two tennis courts and a volleyball court.
Ducati was, in every aspect, a miniature city.
Over 120,000 square metres along Via Emilia were the heart of Ducati’s life. At the time, the Via Emilia was the only street that easily connected North and Central Italy. Therefore, deliveries from the Borgo Panigale factory could be sent as far as Genoa, Florence and Milan in a half day’s time.
In 1938, Ducati opened two new plants, one in Bazzano and one in Crespellano (two towns not far from Borgo Panigale that allowed the company to begin production in the optical sector). In this period the company grew to such an extent that Bruno Ducati began to study how to further amplify the Borgo Panigale factory.
Between 1937 and 1942 many authorities visited the factory, among which were Imberto II, the King’s son, Benito Mussolini, the leader of the fascist government and King Vittorio Emanuele III.
Ducati received authorisation to expand the company again. The expansion was known as “Plant 2″ and would have increased the total number of employees to 7,000. The planned expansion would have included a new administrative area along Via Emilia, four new rectangular buildings for employees and a new square production plant. The plans for expansion also included additional employee services, such as a movie theatre and a nursery school.
Building began in the spring of 1942 but, when Italy entered World War II, it became impossible to continue the works. In fact, when the truce was signed in September 1943 and the factory was taken over by German troops, construction had yet to be completed. At this point, the situation became much worse: WWII bombing completely destroyed the Ducati factory on October 12, 1944.
At the end of WWII, in May 1945, Ducati began working to restore and rebuild the factory, starting with a first phase to clear out the debris left by the bombing. Eventually, the two additional plants in Crespellano and Bazzano were sold in 1948, and that same year the Ducati brothers left the company.
In 1954, while the company was under state control, Ducati production was split into two parts: Ducati Elettrotecnica and Ducati Meccanica.
Ducati Meccanica began producing diesel engines and Triumph Tr4 vehicles, which resulted in the need to expand the factory’s structure and production capacity. Between 1969 and 1973 the expansions included a new production plant for workers that prepared aluminium and steel parts (currently the Ducati motorcycle engine and assembly lines) and a large employee parking lot, surrounded by a small track used to test racing and production motorcycles.
As years passed, work continued with the demolition of an old building to make space for a new parking lot for Ducati suppliers. The demolished building had a true treasure inside: the entire archive of Ducati’s written history, including the technical designs of all the Ducati motorcycles ever produced. Luckily, the archive was saved from the possible destruction.
When TPG bought Ducati in 1996, the original test track was closed and replaced by a newer and safer testing track within the production areas.
If you’d like to learn more about Ducati and its incredible history, you can visit the Ducati Museum and Factory in Borgo Panigale, located just a few kilometres away from the city of Bologna.
Any suggestions?
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An Ironwork Artwork
Bottega Prata
An Ironwork Artwork
Bottega Prata
Since 1940, on via Caldarese 1/d, stands a small shop specialising in wrought iron. The tradition, handed down from father to son for three generations, began in 1914 when Antonio Prata opened his first shop.
In 1940, with great sacrifice, the shop was moved to the centre of Bologna, where it still remains today.
During the Second World War, the shop faced some hardships: cities were being severly damaged by bombings, people were short on money and wrought iron wasn’t a priority for most Italian families.
At the end of the war, Antonio’s son, Giancarlo, began working alongside his father.
It was not an easy time, as the period immediately after the war proved to be crucial for the shop’s survival.
After being liberated by the American troops in the Second World War, Italians aspired to live an American lifestyle. People wanted modernity, they wanted to live the ‘American Dream’ and, as a consequence of this ambition for radical change, much of the Italian age-old culture went to waste.
During the 40s and 50s, having your great-grandmother’s wooden wardrobe was perceived as inadequate and old-fashioned. Therefore these items of furniture were tossed away to make space for new kitchens with linoleum tops and plastic laminates to proudly show off to neighbours and friends. This shift in consumer habits also affected Prata’s clientele, and Antonio had to create a modern revisitation of the ‘plain old’ wrought iron: he decided to paint it. White, green, all sorts of colours.
This got the shop through the first period of the great reconstruction and by the start of the 1960s, Prata’s commerce was once again thriving. Customers were demanding, once again, true-to-tradition designs and objects.
Today, the shop is still open and functioning, with the same tools and workstations as more than seventy years ago.
If you are looking for authenticity and passion, a stop at what is now Pierluigi Prata’s shop is a must.
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A Water Labirinth
Bologna's Canals
A Water Labirinth
Bologna's Canals
Not many know that underneath Bologna lie countless canals. This is due to a series of challenging water projects undertaken at the beginning of the 12th century to bring water to a city that, at the time, had none.
Two canals were dug, for an overall distance of more than 27 km, from the main rivers and streams right up to the city centre. Thanks to these enterprising works, during the 13th century Bologna thrived and became one of the biggest and most prosperous cities of the area.
The hydraulic energy created by the passing water powered the hundreds of mills used to make silk and work rice, as well as the town’s numerous factories.
The canals also drove the wheels for flour mills and helped prevent flooding in a city that is not exactly San Francisco in terms of landscape!
Canals were also used as short-distance transport routes and the humidity they created was ideal for the growth of silk worms - a notable plus for the area's textile industry.
Today, most of the canals are covered but in a few parts of the city it’s possible to see picturesque glimpses of Venice-like views; one such place is Via Piella.
If you’d like to get a closer look at the canals and learn more about their history, the association 'Amici delle Acque' organises guided tours around the city’s canals about once a month (advanced booking required).
Any suggestions?
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The Cradle of Knowledge
The Archiginnasio - Bologna's Ancient University
The Cradle of Knowledge
The Archiginnasio - Bologna's Ancient University
Founded in 1088, the the University of Bologna is the oldest university of the Western world. Initially, its lessons did not have a fixed location and would take place in private homes or rented rooms. In 1562, construction of the university's first dedicated building commenced; the works would lead to the creation of the majestic two-storey Archiginnasio we see today.
During this period, the Pope had called for a reconfiguration of the city’s Piazza Maggiore; it was him who commissioned the university - also known as the Studium - to be built.
The Archiginnasio was the first seat of the University of Bologna, remaining such until 1803.
Situated in the historical part of the city, today the Archiginnasio serves other purposes but its original grandeur remains intact.
The building has a lot of curious rooms; make sure to explore them all.
For example, don’t miss the library with its 500,000 texts and 35,000 manuscripts and be sure to take a peek inside the fascinating Teatro Anatomico: this is where corpses were dissected for the first scientific studies of the human body. Statues decorate the walls of this panelled amphitheatre, depicting various anatomical positions.
Entering through the portico, just inside the Archiginnasio’s courtyard, you’ll also find the former church of Santa Maria dei Bulgari, while the inside Cathedra is famous for the two statues which hold the canopy that cover it.
Known as ‘The Skinned’, these two 17th century works are symbolic of both art and science.
Other busts and statues adorn the room; some are of famous personalities such as Hippocrates and Galen, while others display names which are now almost forgotten. Strolling through the past and present of medice, take a minute to gaze into the stone eyes of once-famous physicians and luminaries.
Of course, the bustling heart of the university were the students. In almost 250 years of activity, they left over 7,000 inscriptions on the building’s façade, spared by the Second World War.
When you visit Europe's cradle of knowledge, try and make them out!
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A Majestic Town Hall
Palazzo Accursio
A Majestic Town Hall
Palazzo Accursio
Today the seat of Bologna’s Town hall, Palazzo Accursio is formed by a group of buildings that have been ingeniously connected over the centuries.
The story of the ‘Palaz’, as Bolognese people call it, begins at the end of the 13th century. In those years, the building was the home of an eminent teacher of law, Accursio da Bagnolo, who taught at the University of Bologna.
In 1336 Palazzo Accursio became the residence of the Anziani ('the Elderly'), the highest court of the Comune and therefore also city government seat.
During the 15th century the palace saw renovations and expansions; it was in these years that the clock tower was added.
The façade of the building displays a wonderful ‘Madonna with Child’ in terracotta by Nicolò dell’Arca, dating to 1478. A marble plaque states that Bologna’s ancient units of measure were there on display for everyone to see; of these, the most important unit was the so called ‘Bologna Foot’, which, by today's standards, would measure approximately 38 centimetres.
Adorned by two clay Eagles, the plaque was attacked during a riot.
In the midst of common upheaval, the original eagles were destroyed and copies had to be made to re-adorn the public building.
Inside, the building displays a number of decorated rooms, such as the Galleria Vidoniana - filled with frescoes - the Sala Urbana, the Sala Borsa and the Farnese room on the second floor.
Different areas of the building follow different opening times, so be sure to plan your visit ahead. Refer to the official site for details.
Any suggestions?
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