The easternmost province of Piedmont, the Celtic-founded city of Novara is pure magic. In its picture-perfect landscape, long rows of poplar trees border the infinite stretches of rice paddies, forming an intricate embroidery on the farmland plains. Nestled in its surrounding hills are traditional villages, as well as staggering natural parks inhabited by rare species. Even architecture lovers will be in for a treat: in Novara’s historical centre medieval buildings and masterpieces by famous Italian architect Antonelli stand proud for everyone to admire.
Riserva di
Novara
Riserva di
Novara
Older than Rome
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If All Bread Could Taste as Sweet
Pane di San Gaudenzio
A sweet dessert bread made from sugar, eggs, butter, flour and a hint of lemon, Pane di San Gaudenzio (San Gaudenzio’s bread) is a delicious, traditional dessert from Novara.
Named after the Patron Saint of the Piedmontese city – first bishop of the town during the 4th century – this dessert is a must to taste when visiting.
While the outer crust is traditionally smothered with either hazelnuts or pine nuts and always coated with a light layer of powdered sugar, the filling of this traditional sweet bread closely resembles the consistency of its well-known cousin, Panettone.
Usually flavoured with chestnuts, jam or raisins, the filling is considered by many as the most gratifying aspect of Pane di San Gaudenzio.
The exact birth date of this dessert is unknown, but what’s certain is that local pastry shops have been making Pane di San Gaudenzio for at least the past 50 years.
Initially, the traditional dish, made with expensive and rare ingredients, was only eaten on January 22nd: the day of the festival of San Gaudenzio. Today, the people of Novara and its visitors enjoy Pane di San Gaudenzio year-round, as the specialty can be found in most of the city’s pastry shops.
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A Sweet Town
Novara's Traditional Biscuits
A Sweet Town
Novara's Traditional Biscuits
Also known as “the sweet land”, Novara and its surroundings are not only blessed by pleasant landscapes, but by an enviably rich culinary tradition when it comes to baked goods!
Desserts are certainly a highlight; thin biscuits in particular (in Italian “biscottini”) have become the pride of Novara, to the point that the city has become widely known as “città dei biscottini”.
Their origin dates back to the 16th century, when they were invented in the nunneries.
The nuns dabbled in cooking sweets to be offered on special occasions, such as a visit from the bishop, or simply to liven up the afternoons of the patients in hospital.
The recipe of these specialties was kept secret until the Napoleonic age, during which the nuns were expelled from their cloisters. After the French Revolution, the recipe passed into the hands of a local grocer named Prina, who started producing these biscuits for the broad public. The biscottini quickly became a sought-after product of the best bakeries in town.
Today, the Camporelli biscottificio of Novara is the reference point for sweets-lovers and connoisseurs alike. Since 1852, this family-run artisan workshop produces the best sweet specialities of Novara, among which the famous “biscuits of the nuns”.
Thanks to their simple and light recipe, these biscuits can also easily be prepared at home.
You only need three ingredients: sugar, flour and eggs. After mixing together sugar and eggs and adding the flour, the batter must be laid out on a tray and shaped like finger biscuits. Once placed in the oven, the biscuits will be ready in just 8 minutes, about the time it takes to prepare a cup of hot chocolate to dip them in!
Another wonderful way to use Novara biscuits is by preparing one of the most famous Italian desserts: Tiramisù. A very popular company produces these biscottini industrially: those can be found in the supermarket just by asking for Pavesini. By alternating layers of biscuits with layers of mascarpone cream you can prepare a delicious dessert that doesn’t require baking.
Last but not least, if you are planning to visit Novara, try to go during the Carnival period: you might meet a man wearing a 19th century wig, walking around with a basket full of biscuits… You can definitely point at him and say: ‘Evviva il Re Biscottino!’ (‘long live the King of Biscottino!').
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Not Just Blue Cheese...
Gorgonzola
Not Just Blue Cheese...
Gorgonzola
One of the world’s oldest blue-veined cheeses, Gorgonzola is mainly produced in Italy’s northern regions of Piedmont and Lombardy. This unique cheese has been made for centuries and, as records show, the technique used to create its marbling dates as far back as the 11th century.
Made from unskimmed cow’s milk, Gorgonzola cheese takes three to four months to become fully ripe.
Ageing takes place at low, steady temperatures and during the process, metal rods are quickly inserted and removed, creating air channels that allow the mould spores to grow: it is this practice that causes the cheese’s distinctive veining. Characterised by a crumbly and soft texture, Gorgonzola can have a mild to sharp taste depending on its age. Long-aged gorgonzola can also have a nutty aroma.
Gorgonzola Dolce (also called Sweet Gorgonzola) and Gorgonzola Piccante (also called Gorgonzola Naturale, Gorgonzola di Montagna) are its two varieties, which vary in their age.
Under Italian law, Gorgonzola enjoys Protected Geographical Status (DOP).
It can only be produced in the provinces of Novara, Bergamo, Brescia, Como, Cremona, Cuneo, Lecco, Lodi, Milan, Pavia, Varese, Verbano-Cusio-Ossola and Vercelli, as well as a number of towns in the area of Casale Monferrato.
If you’re looking to try some ‘as it is’, have a go spreading this buttery cheese on bread. If you’re about to have some in one of the many traditional local dishes that require it (such as polenta, risotto and pizza ai quattro formaggi), remember to pair it well with a rich, red wine to exalt its characteristics.
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Italy's Neoclassical Pride
Casa Bossi
Italy's Neoclassical Pride
Casa Bossi
LOCATED IN THE HIGHEST PART OF THE TOWN OF NOVARA, Casa Bossi represents the architectural bond which ties the ancient city centre to the Alps and Mount Rosa.
Built between 1857 and 1861, the edifice was constructed according to the designs of one of Italy’s most famous architects, Alessandro Antonelli.
With 6,500 square metres and almost 200 rooms, Casa Bossi was built with a technique which includes fulcra that support low-vaulted ceilings and the use of brick. This technique pre-dates the use of iron and concrete which was increasing in use in Northern Europe.
The rooms, despite showing signs of age, still contain an abundance of refined decorations that have only become more beautiful with age.
It's a shame that Casa Bossi doesn't appear in conventional guidebooks, as it's frescoed ceilings and antique floors could put to shame many popular tourist destinations.
The house was originally owned by the Desanti family and subsequently passed into the hands of the Bossi family for two generations.
The edifice also served as home to a number of tenants, many of which were important figures such as architect Luigi Vietti as well as painters, writers, and journalists. The atmosphere inside is still soaked in history and walking through the empty rooms, the past still seems to be the present.
Although Casa Bossi has suffered over the years, its admirers have remained faithful.
In 2010, a group of citizens dedicated to the protection and restoration of Casa Bossi, formed the “Love Committee For Casa Bossi”.
Along with the cooperation of the municipality, the official owners of the building, the Love Committee works tirelessly to promote, conserve, and protect what is considered by many to be the most beautiful neoclassical building in all of Italy.
In 2010 Casa Bossi received 26,150 votes in Fai’s (Fondo Ambiente Italiano) 2010 list of most loved sites in Italy.
Thanks to the hard work of the committee for Casa Bossi, a new project has been initiated: Casa Bossi-Workshop of Beauty.
In an effort to think locally and act glocally, the project aims to give new life to the house as home base for many events in the areas of culture, business, art, and education.
In its first years of creative reutilization, Casa Bossi has been the setting for many photo shoots of Italian designers such as Moschino and Brunello Cucinelli.
Casa Bossi is just a short distance from the basilica of Saint Gaudenzio that, along with its dome are iconic symbols of Novara and of Antonelli’s genius. Casa Bossi is open for special events, which you can check on the foundation's website.
If you'd like to visit on different days than those specified on the site, you can book a tour with the foundation or, if you're feeling lucky, you might find the building open for long-term art exhibitions!
A great beauty and venerated symbol of Novara, Casa Bossi continues to amaze and make its neoclassical beauty seem timeless. If you have some time to spare while in Novara, this building is a real unconventional beauty; don't miss it.
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People's Plaza
The Broletto of Novara
People's Plaza
The Broletto of Novara
The Broletto of Novara represents the city’s history and rich culture, a place where people can marvel its architectural diversity spanning centuries and mingle to enjoy its present artistic side.
The structure is made up of four diverse historical buildings enclosing a courtyard: all built in different periods, these edifices provide a unique architectural contrast between them.
Imagine walking under tall, cool arches and looking down from the top floor onto the neat courtyard. To the north, Palazzo Arengario is the oldest and most imposing building with medieval architecture dating back to the XIII century. Palazzo del Podestà is appealing with earthenware frames and frescos dating to the XV century. To the east is Palazzo dei Paratici with an antique body dating to the XIII century and to the west, Palazzo della Referendia has earthenware tile decorations on windows dating to the XIV century.
All of these diverse buildings combine to form a unique courtyard, conveniently located in the city center.
The Broletto was home to different settings: from political elections to judicial sentencing and prisons, an open food market and artisanal groups, to its present-day art museum.
Its two entrances connected it to the city center’s religious, economical, and cultural happenings that in turn extended to the surrounding countryside. The center was home to artisan shops, vegetable stands, butchers and shoemakers who came from the farmsteads nearby. Today the Broletto, which houses many of the city’s enriching events, has been renovated to secure a cultural revival for its people and visitors.
To celebrate Italy’s 150 year unification, this famous building of Novara was reopened to the public after its most recent restoration project in 2011.
People can spend a day in the Gallery of Modern Art 'Paolo and Adele Giannoni', which houses paintings of famous Italian artists from the 19th and 20th centuries and other exciting contemporary expositions. During the summer, enjoy the warm weather and open courtyard for a cinematic pastime.
The ‘people’s plaza’ of Broletto allows anyone to take in its rich, historic structure and is a modern example of cultural heritage.
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One Castle, Different Functions
The Castle of Novara
One Castle, Different Functions
The Castle of Novara
If you like ruins, castles and -why not- having a stroll in a park, you should visit the Castello Visconteo Sforzesco in Novara, half way between Milan and Turin.
So called because initially built by the Visconti family and later held by the Sforza family, the castello rises in the south-west area of the Piedmontese city.
Built in the first half of the 14th century on pre-existing Roman fortifications, the castle has a rich and turbulent history.
In fact, the imposing structure was not only used as command centre and military barracks during wartime in the 16th and 17th centuries, but was also transformed into a jail during the Napoleonic period. Lately, the castle even served as the seat of the State Forestry Department who planted the nurseries in the wide inner garden.
The structure of the castle itself was modified numerous times and the edifice even withstood several demolition attempts.
Only in 2003 the City Hall bought the property from the State and got permission to refurbish it. What we see today is the result of a great restoration campaign carried out by the local Government. Nowadays, the castle and its surroundings represent an inviting historical area in the heart of the city.
If you happen to visit on a sunny day, take a walk around the castle through the great Allea Park, dating back to the second half of the 19th century. The park’s present-day appearance suits that of a local recreation area, but to an attentive visitor its design and structure recall the tradition of the sumptuous gardens of the past.
Still architecturally preserved from the Visconti period is the so-called Rocchetta, a square tower visible on the north-west corner of the castle. From there, you can step on the footbridge that crosses the impressive moat. While heading to the main entrance arch, look for a coat of arms representing a big snake: it is the symbol of the Duchy of Milan.
The castle’s past also harbours a mystery regarding a solid gold horse statuette by Leonardo da Vinci.
It is said that by order of Ludovico il Moro, Duke of Milan and best known for commissioning The Last Supper, the Gran Cavallo miniature had been designed, manufactured and finally hidden in the basements of the castle.
A deep gallery supposedly crosses the whole city and brings directly to this treasure, but nobody knows where the entryway is.
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Not Quite Mortadella
Novara's Fidighin
Not Quite Mortadella
Novara's Fidighin
Whereas many cold cut-obsessed, Italy-lovers have probably tried mortadella, few are likely to have ever heard of the less popular, but just as tasty, Fidighin.
A traditional product of the city of Novara, Fidighin is a traditional salami made from high quality, lean pork meat containing throat and belly fat, liver and spices.
Many describe the Fidighin as raw, liver mortadella, but if you’re out on the streets of Novara looking for some, don’t be fooled: Fidighin looks nothing like traditional mortadella! Rather, this peculiar insaccato (cold cut) retains its main ingredient’s colour, and is therefore intense red, purple or dark brown, and much smaller in size.
The type of liver used to make Fidighin influences the final taste of the product, which can sometimes be a little spicy.
Seasoned with cloves, black pepper, Barbera wine and occasionally even sugar and cinnamon, Fidighin is stuffed into natural intestines and aged from four to six months.
One of the main ingredients of the local delicacy Paniscia Novarese, Fidighin is a must-try, so make sure to try some with a glass of local red wine!
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A Revolution in Sportswear
Sergio Tacchini
A Revolution in Sportswear
Sergio Tacchini
A man who revolutionised sportswear, Sergio Tacchini, aside from being a fashion designer, was also a professional tennis player.
Born in 1938 in Novara, Sergio performed as a singles player in the Davis Cup for Italy from 1959 to 1966.
The year he left tennis, he decided to open his own sportswear company in Bellinzago Novarese and immediately brought fresh air into the tennis-attire world.
Sergio introduced new fabrics and styles to players’ clothes and, most of all, colour in a world which at the time only wore white.
The project was so successful that in no time Sergio expanded his business to other sports such as ski, fitness, golf and sailing, as well as leisure wear.
Over the years, many famous tennis stars were sponsors of the brand, such as 1970s and 1980s legends Jimmy Connors, Vitas Gerulaitis, Ilie Năstase, Mats Wilander, John McEnroe, Martina Navratilova, Sergi Bruguera, Pat Cash, Gabriela Sabatini, Pete Sampras, and Martina Hingis.
Today, the company's showroom and offices are based in Milan, not far from Sergio's hometown. The brand is working with licenses worldwide and recently finalised a sponsorship with world-class tennis champion Djokovic; Sergio's vision of sport style and creativity continues.
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A master mixologist
Gaspare Campari
A master mixologist
Gaspare Campari
Behind every great brand lies a great man, and Campari is no exception.
The son of farmers, Gaspare Campari was born in 1828 in the province of Novara. In 1842 he would move to Turin to study the art of distillation and liqueur production.
His diligence and hard work paid off and led to the creation of new liqueurs with new and innovative tastes.
The most famous of these is the one that bears his name, Campari.
Around the end of 1860, Campari relocated to Milan with his family. Once there he would open the Caffé Gaspari. Located in Milan’s historic Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, it was a well-know meeting place for artists such as composer Giacomo Puccini and noted scholar, Arrigo Boito.
Who knows if Campari knew how successful and world-famous his creation would become, but what is certain is that when you think of cocktail hour, apertivo, happy hour or however you choose to call it, the name Campari reigns supreme.
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The Pride of Novara
San Gaudenzio's Basilica
The Pride of Novara
San Gaudenzio's Basilica
An important Catholic church in the city of Novara, the Basilica di San Gaudenzio is composed of 3 main elements: the church, its bell tower, and a 121-metre high dome designed by one of Italy’s most famous architects, Alessandro Antonelli.
The first temple dedicated to the saint dates back to 841 A.D., but would later be rebuilt and re-consecrated in 1298.
Between 1552 and 1554, when Spanish troops under Charles V decided to transform the city into a military base, all the existing buildings outside the city walls, including the basilica, were destroyed. In those same years the Fabbrica Lapidea della Basilica di San Gaudenzio was created with the scope of overseeing the rebuilding of the church.
Pellegrino Tibaldi was entrusted with the design of the new church and after the city of Novara miraculously survived the plague of 1576, it was decided that the new basilica would be built on the highest point of the city. Construction began in 1577 and the finished building was consecrated on December 13, 1590 by Bishop Cesare Speciano.
In addition to the dome, the basilica’s entrance also features the work of Antonelli in the form of two elaborately worked doors made of walnut.
The church has a Latin cross plan with a nave flanked by six connected side chapels with a large transept and a deep presbytery. Hanging in the centre of the nave is an enormous chandelier with wrought iron flowers: this commemorates the meeting between Gaudenzio, bishop of Novara and Ambrose, bishop of Milan. Every year on January 22nd when the feast of San Gaudenzio is celebrated and the flower ceremony is re-enacted, the chandelier is lowered and the wrought iron flowers are replaced with new ones carried in by the faithful during the traditional procession.
The most significant element of the basilica is its majestic dome. Antonelli’s masterpiece of design and engineering has become a symbol of Novara and a distinctive element of the city’s skyline.
More than 50 years after the completion of the bell tower and thanks to money collected in tax revenues on meat, the Fabbrica Lapidea realised that the time had come to complete the basilica and gave the project to Antonelli (who was also the genius behind Turin’s Mole Antonelliana).
Work began in 1884, but the construction would face several obstacles ranging from disagreements over the design to a lack of funds caused by the wars of independence against Austria. Work would finally resume between 1873-1874: after the dome had aroused the admiration of visitors, it was decided that it should be finished while its designer - who was now elderly - was alive, so Antonelli was finally given carte blanche with his project. He decided to use only local materials in the construction (an early record of the zero kilometre philosophy!) so as to create an even stronger bond between the basilica and the city of Novara.
Curiously enough, the internal cupolina features the statue christ the saviour by Pietro Zucci and not San Gaudenzio, as one might expect.
The Basilica di San Gaudenzio with all its architectural and artistic excellences is open to the public for visits. The obstacle-free main entrance is wheelchair accessible, but visitors should be aware that the side chapels, presbytery and the Chapel of Scurolo are not handicap accessible.
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Withstanding Time
Galliate Castle
Withstanding Time
Galliate Castle
One of the most significant monuments to be seen in Novara, the Castle of Galliate is a remarkable edifice for its unique architectural structure.
The castle was built at the request of Galleazzo Maria Sforza, duca di Milano (duke of Milan).
It features a rectangular plan, which includes a moat, crenellated walls over three-feet thick, six towers, and main entrance doors equipped with drawbridges.
The two towers on the far north and south sides feature corbels formed by three stone shelves, which protrude one over the other creating a particularly beautiful feature of the castle.
Over the years, the Castello Galliate suffered due to historical events and lack of restructuring. In fact, in the 18th century, the castle was abandoned in a state of considerable degradation, so much that it was divided among several owners in 1878.
Yet, despite years of abandonment, the castle has, for the most part, retained its original appearance.
Only during the 19th century the castle underwent several changes, especially in the eastern and southern sections.
Today, the northeast tower is home to the Angelo Bozzola Museum’s contemporary art collection.
Nowadays, the castle belongs largely to the city of Galliate and is open to visitors. The city has begun plans for the recovery and restoration of the edifice’s structure, and many hope that the legendary treasures of Ludovico il Moro hidden in the castle during the French invasion will resurface during works!
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Your Italian Mother's Beans and Rice
The Paniscia Novarese
Your Italian Mother's Beans and Rice
The Paniscia Novarese
No one is entirely certain of the origins of the hearty Novarese dish known as Paniscia, but the name seems to derive from the idea that panico ('panicum miliaceum' in latin) or another grain of little value was originally used instead of rice.
In fact, this recipe seems to have ancient origins, possibly even before the introduction of rice cultivation in Piedmont, which took place in 1500.
The traditional ingredients used in the preparation of paniscia Novarese include: rice (Arborio, Carnarolo or Roma variety), borlotti or “cranberry beans”, cabbage, celery, onion, red wine (preferably a Novarese variety), pancetta, pork rind, salt, pepper, and salam d’la duja (typical Novarese salami which should definitely not be confused with the Calabrian ‘nduja).
However, as often happens with traditional dishes, the recipe can vary depending on each cook’s preferences, often leaving out some ingredients.
Note: while some cooks may choose to remove an ingredient or two, leaving out the beans, onion, wine, and salami would be considered sacrilege!
If you’re going to try some, remember that Paniscia Novarese pairs well with a medium-bodied red wine such as Barbera or a wine from the hills of Novara such as Bonarda Novarese.
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Two Names, One Church
Duomo di Novara
Two Names, One Church
Duomo di Novara
Dating back to the second half of the 19th century, the Cathedral of Novara (also known as the Duomo di Santa Maria), designed by famous architect Alessandro Antonelli, is an imposing building situated in the main square of the Piedmontese town.
Built in Neo-classical style on the remains of a 12th century church, the edifice still contains some parts of the old cathedral, including a large fragment of the mosaic flooring from the presbytery. The flooring consists of a square with five circles inscribed within it: the central circle, representing the Fall of Adam and Eve, is surrounded by four circles placed in the corners of the square. These depict the four rivers of Paradise in human form: Pishon, Gihon, Tigris and Euphrates.
The old cathedral itself is said to stand on the site of a Roman temple, which is perhaps the reason why the architect chose to incorporate neo-classical columns around the cathedral.
Inside the Duomo, works of art from the Renaissance period as well as medieval frescoes from the earlier church are visible.
Paintings include works by Bernardino Lanino, The Wedding of St. Catherine and The last Supper by Gaudenzio Ferrari, while sculptures include a Crucified Christ from the 15th century. Beside the vestry is the Chapel of San Siro, built during the latter half of the 12th century as a private oratory for the bishop.
The central nave is adorned by a series of Flemish tapestries narrating episodes from the Life of Solomon. Mystery surrounds these tapestries: they were originally ten, but three were given away for no apparent reason while a fourth, believed to depict the black virgin, has disappeared.
A few steps away from the Duomo is the Museum of the Cathedral (Musei della Canonica del Duomo di Novara), opened in 2009; it contains tombstones, sculptures, manuscripts and Greek vases and pottery, as well as an important fresco. The Museum offers guided tours and themed evenings to promote local produce like Gorgonzola cheese, Ghemme wine or the Dolce della Cattedrale, a delicious cake made of flour, eggs, grappa (spirit) and fruit prepared following the original recipe found in an ancient manuscript. Check their website for upcoming dates!
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