Influenced by its ancient Occitan roots, the Pinerolese lands have a strong, mountain-tempered character. An area of past military importance, the Pinerolese still shows evidence of Savoy-French disputes over its grand fortresses. These foreign forces, however, didn't suprress the strong Waldesian culture that today still nourishes the beautiful surrounding valleys and their inhabitants, making the area an incredible melting-pot of heritage and traditions.
Riserva del
Pinerolese
Riserva del
Pinerolese
A Waldesian Stronghold
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The Biggest Alpine Fort
The Fort of Fenestrelle
With an area of over 1,300,000 m², the Forte di Fenestrelle is the biggest alpine fortification in Europe. Overlooking the mountain town of Fenestrelle in Piedmont, the edifice was built by the royal house of Savoy at the end of the 18th century.
With its strategic position at around 1,400 m of altitude, the fort guarded the access to the city of Turin via the Val Chisone (the Chisone Valley).
Designed by architect Ignazio Bertola, the fortress rose on a territory which had been, during the course of the 16th century, part of the French empire. However, the end of the 16th century had seen numerous military defeats for the kingdom of Piedmont: the Battle of Staffarda, the destruction of the Castle of Avigliana and the fire at the Castle of Rivoli.
The area was Acquired in 1709 by the Duchy of Savoy and, as a result of the past unfavourable military outcomes, it began to be regarded as extremely strategic for the defence of the Kingdom of Piedmont. Towards the end of the century the pre-existing French fortifications were reenforced and the Fort of Fenestrelle was commissioned.
The old and the new were to be connected by a 3 km long wall, an indoor staircase of 3,996 steps - unique in Europe - and an outside staircase of 2,500 steps.
The construction began in the summer of 1728 but was interrupted in 1793. Works commenced once more in 1836, ending, this time definitively, in 1850.
During the Napoleonic Era, Fenestrelle was once again under French influence and the fort was used as a prison by the French Empire.
An interesting fact: in that period, the prison held Pierre Picaud, Dumas’ inspiration for his Count of Monte Cristo.
After the unification of Italy (1861), the prison was used to isolate supporters of the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies and of the Papal States; conditions were often inhumane and many died of hunger and cold.
After the second World War, the fort was left to itself, abandoned, and most of the furnishings inside were left to thieves.
In 1990, an association began to restore the fortress, which today is open for visits. You can choose the visit that best suits your schedule: there’s a one hour-long visit, a three hour visit and a day visit. It really depends on how much you enjoy stairs and walking uphill!
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Five Mountain Gems
Usseaux and its Traditional Villages
Five Mountain Gems
Usseaux and its Traditional Villages
With its name probably deriving from Celtic origins, Usseaux comprises five small mountain villages where Patouà, a variant of the ancient Occitan language once spoken in southern France, is still used.
This area used to be part of France and today, its untouched nature and characteristic stone homes make visits seem like a surreal trip back in time.
Also called Occellum in Julius Caesar’s De Bello Gallico, the area’s name is thought to be due to its mountain setting - it should, in fact, mean ‘in a high position’. Out of the five towns of the area (Usseaux, Balboutet, Laux, Pourrieres and Fraisse), Usseaux is the oldest one, but all together they are, historically, the first existing villages of the valley.
A perfect destination for those who are looking for peace and quiet, these villages are an astonishing example of agricultural and rural reality, both past and present, in a mountainous area.
Walking through the streets the most common sights are bread ovens and old mills as well as fountains and washbasins, both of which are filled with fresh water from the surrounding mountains.
However, if you’re strolling along Usseaux’s alleys, you’ll notice a multitude of brightly coloured mural paintings; with over forty murals depicting local nature, animals, rural life and traditional fairy tales it is no wonder the village is known as la borgata dei murales (the borough of mural paintings).
The other four villages are each characterised by their very own, individual beauty.
Balboutet is a small agricultural centre known to be the land of sun, sundials and swallows as well as cattle and cheese. Laux lies on a small plateau and has a charming small natural lake. Pourrières, instead, overlooks the road to Sestriere, with its ancient church and small cemetery and.
Lastly, Fraisse, also known as the hamlet of wood, is surrounded by forests and thick vegetation, and runs along the river Chisone; it’s great to visit during springtime as all the flowers are in bloom.
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An Ancient Occitan Instrument
The Ghironda
An Ancient Occitan Instrument
The Ghironda
A medieval folk instrument, the Ghironda, also known as hurdy gurdy, is popular in traditional Occitan music.
A curious instrument, the Ghironda: it makes a droning sound, produced by turning a handle which is typically attached to a rosined wheel sounding a series of strings. The mandolin-shaped body also has a number of keys, played by the left hand, which influence the overall sound and consent the production of different notes.
Today, these instruments are rare, and so are the artisans who still master the ancient art of their making.
A bee keeper, woodworker, sculptor and fond Piedmontese speaker, Guido Ronchail is known for being one of the last Ghirondai - Ghironda makers.
But why is Guido's small workshop in Pragelato, a small village in Piedmont's Waldesian Valleys?
Pragelato and the surrounding hills, once part of France, are on the outermost border of the historical region of Occitania. Today, Guido can be seen at work in his tiny workshop, adorned with intricate woodworks, in the Via Nazionale of the town, where stringed instruments still to be completed lie scattered over the small work surface.
Finished instruments, however, are kept in a meticulous gallery where passers-by can admire the hand-made splendour of these works of art.
If you’re curious to hear the sound of this ancient instrument and live the magical atmosphere of an epoch gone by, the town of Pragelato hosts the annual Ghironda festival every August where Occitan music and dances seize the city!
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A Violin in the Hills
Sergio Luigi Bonino
A Violin in the Hills
Sergio Luigi Bonino
A professional lute-maker in Pinerolo, Sergio Luigi Bonino produces artisanal high quality violins, violas and cellos as well as restoring ancient and precious instruments.
Created following the classic lute-making models, Sergio’s instruments express the personality of their creator through the perfection of the tiniest details. Each of the more than 70 parts that make up each instrument are precisely cut, carved and polished by Sergio in his small workshop.
Before the varnishing stage (composed of more than 25 careful hands of paint) each instrument is tested in terms of acoustics and left to rest for about two weeks, allowing for the wood to 'settle' before painting.
All hand-made and produced from the best wood (which is left to age for a minimum of 10 years before carving) Sergio's violins distinguish themselves, among other elements, by the cut of their f-holes.
Bonino’s instruments unite aesthetic beauty with an extraordinary acoustic sound.
Today, these mountain-made string instruments are appreciated as far abroad as China and Japan.
Located in via Principi d’Acaja, 46 – 10064 Pinerolo (To), the workshop has recently been concentrating its efforts on the production of ancient instruments - such as ancient guitars and mandolins - and replicas of classic models.
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Along the
Chisone River
Val Troncea Park
Along theChisone River
Val Troncea Park
Situated in the heart of the Cottian Alps, close to the small mountain municipality of Pragelato, the Val Troncea Park covers an area of 3,280 hectares in the upper part of the basin of the Chisone torrent.
The park was created in 1980 to preserve the stunning natural environment of the area and is is located at a minimum of 1670 AMSL, with its highest point at the peak of the mountain 'Punta Rognosa di Sestriere'.
The nature reserve offers numerous hiking paths, all linking the different hamlets at the bottom of the valley with the beautiful mountain peaks.
The park follows the path of the Chisone river, which starts at the very end of the valley. The protected territory is mainly delimited by summits of three thousand meters in height and lies entirely in the Municipality of Pragelato.
A curiosity: the Chisone valley was formed due to the action of the glaciers and erosive phenomena which are still taking place today.
In addition to the actual park, the town of Pragelato houses a museum dedicated to the Val Troncea habitat, where many different animal species found in the park (including deer, roe deer, ibex, wild boar and the Golden Eagle) are described.
Good to know, all the taxidermies on display are animals which have perished naturally and, having been retrieved by park rangers, are shown in the museum to illustrate the variety of species present in the park and their characteristics.
Credits: Federparchi - parks.it -http://www.parks.it/parco.val.troncea/Epar.php
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Traditional Mountain Cheese from Pinerolo
Tomino del Talucco
Traditional Mountain Cheese from Pinerolo
Tomino del Talucco
A fresh cheese produced from goat’s milk or a mixture of goat’s and cow’s milk, Tomino del Talucco is produced in the hamlet of Talucco (in Pinerolo city) as well as some small towns in the province of Turin.
To make this cheese, the concentration of cow’s milk used must be less than 90%.
This traditional cheese is of cylindrical shape, with an average diameter of 4-5cm, and displays a flat surface. Each Tomino usually weighs about 50-80g and can be eaten both fresh or ripened.
In the case of fresh Tomini, there is no rind and the interior is white or ivory without holes, while the texture is soft and slightly consistent. The smell is delicate and rarely pungent and the taste is slightly acidic.
In the case of ripened Tomini, the rind is hard and the interior is yellowish while the texture harder, as the cheese has lost some of its water during its ageing process. The smell is strong, persistent and pungent while the taste is savoury and salty.
Produced with raw milk, the Tomino di Talucco is made by heating the milk to 80 °C.
The milk is subsequently cooled to 36 °C and coagulated by adding bovine liquid rennet. The curd is cut and collected and then placed in moulds to drain. The cheese is then dry-salted and left in a dry, airy place for ripening, which generally takes one or two days; however, ripening of 15-20 days is also carried out to obtain stronger-tasting variants of Tomini di Talucco.
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Mountain Wine
Pinerolese Ramie
Mountain Wine
Pinerolese Ramie
Produced in very limited quantities, the Pinerolese Ramie DOC is a red wine made exclusively from grapes grown in the municipalities Pomaretto and Perosa Argentina, just west of Turin.
The fields on which these vineyards lie, which all together make just over 3 hectares of grapevines, are at approximately 1000m in altitude, conferring unique flavours to this particular Piedmontese wine.
The grapes used to make Pinerolese Ramie are Avanà Avarengo, probably of French origin, Chatus and Becuet.
Of these three, a minimum of 60% must be present for the wine to be eligible as Ramie.
Other wines that can concur to the creation of Ramie must be non-aromatic grapes certified by the Piedmont region and mustn’t exceed 40% total.
The origin of this wine’s name is uncertain, but experts and locals alike believe it could simply refer to the branches (rami) of the trees that are cut off to make room for the grapevines in the vineyards.
With only approximately 7.5 tons of grapes annually, this wine is extremely prized for its rarity.
It has a deep ruby color and a well-developed bouquet reminiscent of berries with a nice spicy note. It is a plump, fresh and elegant wine and, although consumed locally during an entire meal, it pairs well with pork, lamb, poultry, and pasta.
If you’re a wine lover and happen to be in the area, be sure to try some and, because this wine is hard to find abroad, definitely bring some home with you.
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A Jewel Brought Back by the Past
Miradolo Castle
A Jewel Brought Back by the Past
Miradolo Castle
Already mentioned in documents dating back to the 17th century, Miradolo Castle was brought as a dowry by the Marquise Teresa Massel, wife of Knight Louis of the Counts of Cacherano of Bricherasio and renovated in neo-Gothic style in 1866 on the occasion of their wedding.
The emblems of Luigi Cacherano and Teresa Massel of Bricherasio are alternated throughout the building, and are still visible today.
The Counts had two children, a daughter named Sofia and a son Emanuele. Sofia never married and remained the only and last heir of the Cacherano – Massel heritage. Upon her death in 1950, she left the castle and the park to the religious congregation of Don Orion. In the late ’90s the property was offered for sale and consequently left in a state of neglect with heavy progressive deterioration of the property and the park.
Fortunately, in 2008 the castle became the headquarters of the Cosso Foundation and a recovery plan was put into place.
The park surrounding Miradolo Castle extends over 6 hectares and, still today, it reveals the taste of those who had begun to design it, probably in the late 18th century, and of those who later went on to create it, in the second half of the 19th century. Today the castle’s park is on the official list of historic gardens of the Piedmont Region and is worth a visit if you love stepping back in time.
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A Trademark of Sweetness
Zurigo Cake
A Trademark of Sweetness
Zurigo Cake
A tasty recipe dating back to the Belle Epoque, the Torta Zurigo was created in the 1930s by the local Mastro Pasticcere Castino to delight Princess Jolanda of Savoy, who often visited Pinerolo.
The name 'Zurigo' (Zurich) is likely to have no specific reason other than the fact that, in those times, Switzerland was regarded as one of the countries with the best pastry chefs in Europe - naming a cake after an important Swiss city would implicitly assure its absolute quality.
In 1979 the original recipe was handed down to Monaco Maria, who at present trademarked the recipe.
With a savoury cocoa shortcrust pastry base, the Torta Zurigo is filled with chantilly cream with crumbled nougat and chocolate, these last two both typical Piedmontese products. Covered with a snowfall of chocolate flakes, the cake is then decorated with scenographic icing-covered cherries... the end result is stunning.
Even though the recipe is a classic of the whole Pinerolese area, the cake is made exclusively by the patîserrie laboratory Il Pasticcere, just outside the centre of Pinerolo.
Tip: If you happen to stop by and feel calorie-guilty, take a stroll in the beautiful park that encircles the laboratory!
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A Glacial Alpine Setting
Conca Cialancia Park
A Glacial Alpine Setting
Conca Cialancia Park
The mountains of the Waldesian valleys treasure an unbelievable array of flora and fauna and are, for this reason, subject to strict conservation measures.
One of the three most important natural parks in the area, Conca Cialancia natural park is situated in a central position in the western Alpine chain and is part of the Val Germanasca.
The area lies entirely between 1,796 and 2,856 meters above sea level and can be reached by taking a military carriage road leaving from SP (strada provinciale, meaning ‘provincial road’) Val Germanasca and heading towards Lago Lauson and then to Conca Cialancia.
Given the road conditions, using an all-terrain vehicle is highly reccomended.
The name of the Park comes from the local dialect “cialancio”, meaning landslide. If you visit the area, the reason for its name is very clear: the whole valley is furrowed by several gullies. These leave debris year round, continuously changing the shape of the territory.
This Park has typically Alpine features, making it ideal for mountain-lovers who want to discover the real perfumes and colors of Val Germanasca.
The Alpine vegetation includes green alders, mountain ashes and several herbaceous species like the two flower violet, the white hellebore, the common wood sorrel, and the common lady’s mantle. At higher altitudes, the acidophilus sub-alpine willow grove together with wonderful pioneer species like saxifrages, the bavarian gentian, the Alpine rock-jasmine and the glacier crowfoot all thrive.
Among amphibians - and of great scientific interest - the large alpine salamander inhabits the park. An endemic species of Alpi Cozie, this lizard-like creature has adapted to the high-mountain environment and, unlike the other amphibians, gives birth to fully-developed offspring.
As far as fauna is concerned, the park is populated by the typical ungulates of the Alps. Along with chamois, wild goat, deer, and roe deer, the park is also home to mountain hares, foxes, ermines and partridges.
Whether you know your taxonomy, are a nature lover or a lucky-feeling photographer with a passion for mountain safaris, Conca Cialancia has plenty of things to share!
Credits: Federparchi - parks.it -http://www.parks.it/parco.conca.cialancia/Eindex.php
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Paper Thin
Luserna Stone
Paper Thin
Luserna Stone
A typical building material of local mountain homes, the Pietra di Luserna, whose petrographic name is Ortogneiss Lastroide, is a dark, shiny stone resistant to both weather and erosion.
Naturally available in four marvellous colours, Luserna stone is a lamellar gneiss with enviable technical characteristics.
Although usually cut very thin, it is unparalleled in hardness and proves to be an extremely versatile material. Perfectly suited for every type of use, it is a building material both for exteriors and interiors, in the latter case usually utilised as a decorative element in traditional homes.
Being particularly light, the Pietra di Luserna is perfect for luxurious coverings of steps and sills, as well as paving.
Traditionally, local shepherds commonly used the stone as a building material, and especially as losa roofing for their rural homes. At the time, stone was extracted manually; truly hard work considering the few tools that were available. It was carried out by taking stone from the small natural outcrops, identifying those that were particularly easy to break. This stone, despite its excellent qualities, was mainly used locally due to the difficulties in extraction.
Real quarrying started in the mid 1800s when a few local entrepreneurs began to sell a small number of products made of pietra di Luserna.
Success was quick to come and continued to increase in a short period of time, bringing work, relative wealth, and most of all, a new mentality. Stone extraction began to be regarded no longer as a mere extension of agricultural activity, but as a source of fulltime work for a good number of villagers. Success was assured when the stone proved to be a useful architectural element not only for the classic roof coverings, but also for cantilevers, balconies, road pavings and all those elements that required elegance, practicality, low cost and durability.
Those were times when precarious working conditions, the difficulty of transportation in the valleys and the lack of means of transport made the quarryman’s work among the hardest and most tiring of the time.
The Luserna Stone was widely used, later on, in the prestigious construction of the Italian capital of the Savoias: Turin.
During the reign of Umberto I, thanks to the new railway connection, the use of the Luserna Stone in Turin reached its all-time peak. Things continued in this way until after World War II when, thanks to the first motorised machineries, a vertiginous growth in the excavation capacity commenced. In the 19th century, the great architect, Alessandro Antonelli, seemingly redeemed the fate of such a beautiful material by using the Luserna Stone in his most daring and admirable work: the Mole Antonelliana.
Today, Luserna stone is found in the quarry basins of Bagnolo Piemonte, Luserna San Giovanni and Rorà and has one of the top outputs in Italy with approximately 300.000 tons of stonework per annum.
While you're out and about in the small mountain villages of the Waldesian Valleys, try and spot the Luserna Stone around you: steps, roofings, water fountains, benches... you'll begin to see it everywhere!
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An International Opera Star
Italo Tajo
An International Opera Star
Italo Tajo
An Italian operatic bass, Italo Tajo was born in 1915 in Pinerolo and studied violin and voice at the Music Conservatory of Turin. Having made his stage debut in 1935 as Fafner under Fritz Busch, he followed Busch to Glyndebourne and became a member of the chorus.
In 1939 he returned to Italy, where he became a member of the Rome Opera and, in 1940, he joined the Teatro alla Scala in Milan, where he sang until 1956.
When the war ended, his career spread overseas with debuts in Paris, London, Edinburgh, Buenos Aires and the United States.
Although he made a specialty of comic roles, he sang a fair number of serious roles and also sang in the musical “South Pacific” on Broadway, later also appearing in “Kiss Me, Kate”.
His most frequent roles included Figaro, Leporello, Don Basilio, Dulcamara and Don Pasquale.
In 1966 he began teaching at the University of Cincinnati where he established a successful opera workshop.
His last stage appearance was in 1991 and, although he made relatively few recordings, Tajo continued singing until well into his seventies and died in Cincinnati, Ohio, at the age of 77.
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Mountain History
Museums of the Waldesian Valleys
Mountain History
Museums of the Waldesian Valleys
As is customary with mountain towns, every valley has its own traditions and heritage. Today, in the attempt to preserve age-old cultures, this means that every valley has its own museum.
The mountainous area of the Northern province of Turin and the Waldensian Valleys are no exception, but getting around all the different exhibitions – which are sometimes also hard to come across when doing your planning – can be confusing. So we’ve created a handy list for you with some of the best and most interesting museums of the area. Here it is:
Ecomuseo Scopriminiera – in Loc. Paola, 10060 Prali (TO), “enter the gallery aboard the miners’ train, feel the fresh air on your skin, be enveloped by the darkness of the subsoil broken only by the glitter of talc and amaze yourself in front of the absolute silence of the mine. Then, be ready to be startled by the strong vibration of jackhammers and the sudden explosions: all senses are involved in this magical game of contrasts that is Scopriminiera”.
The Scopriminiera ecomuseum, with its 3.5 km of tunnels and underground passages offers an extraordinary journey through time. With its network of external excursions it’s an opportunity to discover the life of the peasant-miner and the traces that the years of talc mining have left in the valley. In addition to the underground visits to the areas and industrial buildings adjacent to the entrance of the Paola mine, it is also possible to visit the permanent museum exhibition.
Museo Storico dell’Arma di Cavalleria – located in Viale Giolitti n.5, Pinerolo (TO), the museum displays historical uniforms, carriages, photographs and weapons of the Italian cavalry.
Museo Civico Etnografico / Museo del Legno – located in Via Giuseppe Brignone, 3 Pinerolo (TO) and positioned in the beautiful basement of Palazzo Vittone with its vaulted brick ceiling, the museum depicts rural life in the mountains and popular culture.
In addition to the reconstructions of traditional alpine barns, the museum displays a traditional bedroom, a craftsmen’s workplace and a winery as well as a wide selection of work tools. The museum also houses models that reproduce particular types of buildings such as a traditional Provencal house of the valleys and a mill.
Museo del costume e delle tradizioni delle genti Alpine – located in via S. Giovanni, Borgata Rivet, Pragelato (TO). Only open a few hours a week, the museum is dedicated to traditional Alpine costumes and clothes, as well as mountain traditions, crafts and tools.
Museo e Fondazione Valedese – located in Via Beckwith, 3, Torre Pellice (TO) and over 100 years old, the museum is dedicated to conserving Waldensian traditions and culture. The term “Waldensian Valleys” is the name by which the three valleys of western Piedmont are often known: Val Pellice, Val Germanasca and lower Val Chisone.
The long history of the Waldensian movement has left museums, sites and buildings in the area, all of which highlight the historical, cultural and religious events. The Waldensian communities have started to protect this rich cultural heritage since the late nineteenth century. Inside, among other artefacts and pictures on display, a rural home has been recreated with its barn and stables, kitchen and bedroom.
Museo Scuola Pramollo - situated in Località Pellenchi, 10060 Pramollo (To), the small museum is a reconstruction of an Italian school at the end of the 19th century. Original furnishings include the students’ chairs and desks, the teacher’s desk and wooden board, as well as photographs, registers and notebooks. The museum is open for visits every day upon prior request.
Ecomuseo Feltrificio Crumière - The Ecomuseum Feltrificio Crumière was inaugurated on July 14, 2006 on the grounds of an ancient felt fabric factory. In 1995, the existing factory building was transformed into a museum of industrial archeology and can be found on Piazza Jervis, 1, Villar Pellice (To).
Full recovery of the historical parts of the building was possible, consisting of a late nineteenth-century stone building, arranged on three floors, first used as a mill and then used as a felt factory. The transformation of the old building into a museum avoided its progressive deterioration, allowing the recovery of all the historical textile machineries and of the historical archive that accurately reconstructs the socio-economic life of the company. Entering the rooms, we find huge machines, some functioning and some still occasionally used by the factory. The permanent museum itinerary, consisting of the machineries of felt production are, from time to time, joined to thematic installations, temporary exhibitions and cultural events.
Museo Valdese di Rorà: situated in Via Maestra 1, Rorà (To) it is also known as the ecomuseum of stone. The exhibit consists of two sites, both greatly representative of community life.
The first site is located in the heart of the village, where one of the most ancient buildings hosts the Waldensian museum which, through artifacts and tools, testifies the rich and eventful life of the inhabitants of Rorà who were peasants and quarrymen.
The other site is an open air exhibit: the historical quarry of Tupinet. No longer active, it effectively represents the condition of the original 19th century quarries. The track, along which life-sized mannequins have been placed, unfolds through the mountains depicting the various phases of quarry-work. The visitor explores and rediscovers techniques and tools and working conditions.
Museo del Gusto – The only structure of its kind in Italy, the Taste Museum of Frossasco (Via Principe Amedeo, 42) offers a virtual journey tracing nutrition from the prehistoric era up to modern times. The museum also organises discovery itineraries dedicated to various typical foods through multimedia stations dedicated to the 5 senses. It is also home to the International Cooking School and also has a Wine Boutique available for tastings.
Among other minor museums in the area, are:
- Museo del Mutuo Soccorso – Located in Via Silvio Pelvico 19, Pinerolo, it focuses on mutual aid and was the first mutual aid foundation to be created in Italy. Today, the museum displays historical photographs and has temporary exhibitions but is only open one day a week.
- Gianvella a Luserna S.Giovanni - is a museum dedicated to Giosuè Gianavello, head of the local resistance movement.
- Museo della Balsiglia di Massello - the museum remembers the siege that the heights of Pan di Zucchero underwent.
- Museo Scuola Odin Bertot di Angrogna - a historical building built at the begging of the 20th century, the edifice, an old school, has a section dedicated to a famous benefactor of the area, Beckwith.
- Museo delle donne Valdesi di Angrogna - is a museum dedicated to all important women in Waldensian history.
- Museo di Rodoretto di Prali: the edifice houses everyday scenes from peasant, rural mountain life.
- Collezione Ferrero-Scuola Latina di Pomaretto: the exhibition focuses on ancient mountain crafts.
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Hay, Are You Craving Some Cheese?
'Seras del Fen' Cheese
Hay, Are You Craving Some Cheese?
'Seras del Fen' Cheese
Also known as seiras or seras, the Saras del Fen is a fresh ricotta cheese typical of the Valli Valdesi.
Prepared daily with the residual whey from cheese-making, Saras is made by bringing the leftover liquid to a boil, in order to coagulate its residual solids. When a creamy, whitish layer forms on top of the pot, it is poured into canvas-lined moulds. Once cold, the seras is wrapped in hay (fen): hence, its name.
Originally, the moulds were wrapped in hay to facilitate their transport from the mountain pastures to the valley.
If you choose to try some, remember that this particular type of cheese should be eaten fresh (seasoned for about two weeks) and that production occurs only during the summer months at over 600 metres of altitude. Today, each herdsman still maintains his own particular way of making seras.
A treat for the nose and palate alike, the seras vaunts exquisite herbal notes which acquire an increasing intensity as time progresses.
Refinement of this cheese can confer creaminess and a spicy finish, while fresh-made seras has a mellow, rich taste. If you’re looking to try seasoned seras, you’re most likely to find it in its simpler recipe, without the hay wrapping; this type of seras can be aged up to four months. Alternatively, seasoned plain seras can be sold as seras del fen by wrapping it with hay two weeks prior to selling: this time is enough for the cheese to acquire its characteristic herbal taste.
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Three Valleys, Different Climate
Orsiera Park
Three Valleys, Different Climate
Orsiera Park
The Orsiera park includes the alpine area of the Orsiera Rocciavrè, lying between the Susa, Chisone, and Sangone valleys, and the xeric areas around Orridi di Chianocco and Foresto, in the Susa Valley.
The Park lies in a high mountain area with four peaks higher than 2,800 meters (Monte Orsiera, Rocca Nera, Punta Cristallina, P. della Gavia) and its landscape is characterized by several lakes of glacial origins, especially in the middle-eastern section of the park.
The short and steep glacial valleys have been shaped by the watercourses, while in its south-eastern section, where the green stones outcrop, the park is characterized by a harsh and wild morphology with thin and mainly shrubby vegetation. The park’s vegetation is particularly interesting not only because the protected territory covers a large area in altitude, but also because the three valleys in which it develops have different climatic and pedological features.
The geomorphological features of the park’s territory enable many animal species to find their ideal habitat.
The considerable altimetric range, the different exposure of the slopes and the scarce human influence determine a diversity of undisturbed environments, giving different species the opportunity to live and breed in undisturbed nature.
The park can be visited freely but park guides are available on request.
Credits: Federparchi - parks.it - http://www.parks.it/parco.orsiera.rocciavre/Epar.php
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Cured Meat from the Mountains
Mustardela
Cured Meat from the Mountains
Mustardela
A local type of blood sausage of the Waldesian Valleys, Mustardela, like many other cured cold cuts of humble origins, was created to preserve the least-prized parts of the pig.
With a name that to some could recall the better known Mortadella, Mustardela doesn’t share the looks or the origins of its famous sibling: it is dark red, due to its high blood content and derives from the local Occitan tradition.
Composed of parts such as the lungs, tongue, kidneys and rind, Mustardela is made by boiling together all of the above and adding a little of the pig’s belly fat.
The meat is then ground and mixed with spices, salt, pepper and vegetables such as onions, leeks and garlic, as well as about a third of pork blood. Seasoned with nutmeg, cinnamon and cloves, the mixture is then packed into a calf’s small intestine, as was done traditionally, and then boiled at just under 100°.
Usually served after being boiled or simmered, this typical sausage is often used to accompany boiled potatoes or polenta. If you’re looking to try some, be aware that Mustardela is a seasonal product and is only available during the autumn and winter months.
Today, there are only few producers left, as protocols are very strict and Mustardela can only be produced in Pellice, Chisone, the Germanasca Valleys and the province of Turin. Here they are:
- Bruno Gonin: Torre Pellice (To), Via della Repubblica, 22 – tel. +39 0121 91406
- Dario Geymonat: Bobbio Pellice (To), Via Maestra, 37 – tel. +39 0121 957710
- Livio Ribetto: Perosa Argentina (To), Via Re Umberto, 3 – tel. +39 0121 81253
- Giovanni Michelin Salomon, Torre Pellice (To), Via G. Matteotti, 9 – tel. +39 0121 932353 – 328 2113732
- Salumificio Valpellice, Bibiana (To), Via Fienile, 23 – tel. +39 0121 55340
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