Guarded by the beautiful Maritime Alps, the town of Carrù vaunts a surprisingly rich history, as well as incredible food - which includes the legendary local must-try, Bue Grasso. Once a favourite holiday destination of the Piedmontese royal family, Carrù and its sorroundings still rival those of its better-known and touristy neighbour, Langhe.
Riserva di
Carrù
Riserva di
Carrù
The door to the Langhe
Thanks to our grandfathers: Banca Alpi Marittime.
Discover all the excellence in this Riserva
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Events
Dark Chocolates for a Blue Lady
'Baci della Dama Blu' Chocolates
The signature shiny blue wrapper typical of Carrù hold more than an exquisite handcrafted chocolate; each “kiss” also contains an element of mystery… the mystery of the Dama Blu.
The story goes that on the first Friday of September in 1663, Cristina Paola del Carretto (also known as the Lady of Carrù) was fatally wounded by an arrow.
To this day, no one knows who the bowman was, but legend has it that the first Friday of every month, Lady Carrù, in her festive blue silk dress, steps out of her portrait and roams the halls of her castle.
To honour the legend of this beloved symbol of Carrù, a local confectioner’s shop called Pasticceria Durando, created Baci della Dama Blu: bite-sized chocolates with a meringue base, a heart of sherry-infused cherry filling, all covered in rich dark chocolate.
The small chocolates, be it for the legend behind their name, be it for their sweet goodness, became a symbol of the city of Carrù in no time.
The question of who shot the fatal arrow will most likely always remain a mystery, but these treats certainly represent Lady Carrù in all her elegance!
If you're looking for a treat to bring home with you, these will certainly live up to expectations - the problem is, will they reach home?
Any suggestions?
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Italy’s George Washington
Luigi Einaudi
Italy’s George Washington
Luigi Einaudi
Luigi Einaudi, Italian journalist, politician and economist and second President of the Italian Republic from 1948 to 1955, was arguably the most important historical figure to emerge from the small Piedmontese town of Carrù.
Born in Carrù in 1874, Einaudi was educated at Turin’s liceo classico Cavour and received a degree in law from the University of Turin in 1895.
Einaudi began his long career spanning several areas of expertise as a professor of economics, first at the University of Turin and subsequently at Milan’s Bocconi University.
Even at a young age he had great success; indeed, articles he published in the early 20th century proposed radical economic reforms that would come to shape modern-day practices regarding taxation and the formal declaration of income.
During this period he also began collaborating as a journalist for several Italian newspapers, including La Stampa and Il Corriere della Sera, and worked has a financial correspondent for foreign publications such as The Economist.
He interrupted his work as a journalist in 1926, when during the rise of fascism Mussolini forced Il Corriere della Sera’s influential editor in chief, Luigi Albertini, to step down.
Following a brief period spent in Switzerland from 1943-44, Einaudi returned to Italy, where he almost immediately took up an important role in various public positions. In addition to several years as the Governor of the Bank of Italy, he served as the Minister of Finances, Treasury and Balances and Vice Premier, prior to his election on May 11, 1948 as the President of the Italian Republic.
At the end of his term in 1955 and 6 years prior to his death at the age of 87, he became a Senator.
Einaudi maintained an important connection with the land where he was born and raised until the end of his life. He kept a farm in Dogliani - just 10 kilometres from Carrù - where his family had moved following his father’s death in 1888. He managed all of the farm’s affairs and was even a passionate producer of the area’s renowned Nebbiolo wine!
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A Women's Affair
Murazzano 'Toma' cheese
A Women's Affair
Murazzano 'Toma' cheese
Also known as robiola d’Alba or robiola delle Langhe, the toma di Murazzano is a type of cheese that dates back to ancient times, some even say back to the days of the Celts.
It is, however, strictly linked to the women of the Alta Langa (the area bordering on the region of Liguria, lit. ‘High Langa’); it was their duty to care for the sheep, to see to the production and sale of the cheese. On market day, these countrywomen walked, rode or drove to the village of Murazzano in order to sell their tume to the tradesmen, who would then take them to bigger towns to re-sell them, sometimes even as far as Turin.
Nowadays, it is customary for men to produce Murazzano cheese as well.
The Murazzano is a rich fresh cheese, produced either exclusively with sheep’s milk or with a percentage of cow’s milk (max. 40 %).
The sheep’s milk is predominantly from the native breed, Pecora delle Langhe, which used to be almost extinct. However, thanks to the production of the toma di Murazzano the breed has seen somewhat of a comeback, even if it is still in danger of extinction.
The shape of the Murazzano is cylindrical, with a flat surface of 10-15 centimetres and an edge of about 3-4 centimetres, with a weight that varies from 300-400 grams. The colour of the paste is milky-white, the structure slightly compact but soft, sometimes round-eyed.
The outside is rind-free, milky-white when fresh and straw-coloured when seasoned. The flavour is subtle and fragrant, recalling the sheep’s milk with which it is made.
The milking of the Murazzano sheep takes place twice a day, after which the milk is coagulated at 37 degrees Celsius and added liquid rennet.
The curd is then deposited in cylindrical forms with pierced bottoms called fascelle, which once were made of wood, but are now in aluminium.
After forming the cheese, it is dry salted and then left to season – at least for 6 days – during which the forms are rinsed daily with tepid water.
This traditional cheese is produced and seasoned in about 50 districts in the Alta Langa and has obtained the Italian quality assurance label DOC – Denominazione di origine controllata (controlled designation of origin) and the European DOP – Denominazione di origine protetta (protected designation of origin) and even has its own Consortium with the aim of promoting and protecting the typical dairy product.
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White gold
Porro di Cervere
White gold
Porro di Cervere
When you think of leeks you’re probably thinking of the large, garden variety found at your local green grocer’s… unless you’re in the know about the tall, thin stalks of tender white gold; then you’re thinking of Porro di Cervere!
Cultivated in Cervere, in the province of Cuneo, these leeks have a flavour that is sweeter and more delicate than the leeks you may be used to.
They feature a much longer white portion, which is a result of the producers’ dedication and skill. The seeds are usually planted between March/April and then, in June/July they are transplanted into rows with 1 meter between each plant.
September is when the real work begins: this is the stage when the plants undergo a process known as hilling or trenching. This is done repeatedly throughout the growing season and involves surrounding each plant with a hill or trench of soil.
This increases and encourages the growth of a longer stem and keeps the lower portion of the leek paler and very tender.
The leeks begin to reach maturity starting in October and harvesting begins. Leeks harvested in autumn are easily stored all winter long; the most important thing is that they are protected from light and extreme temperatures.
Porro di Cervere is low in calories, rich in vitamins and minerals (A, B, B2, C and Iron), and packed with flavour that sets it apart from its similar counterparts onions and garlic.
In 1996, a consortium was established to promote these leeks since they were unfortunately another PAT production at risk.
Today the consortium uses a symbol to identify and guarantee both the origin and the quality of its products; this is important as this variety accounts for more than two-thirds of the Piedmont region’s overall production of leeks. Over the years, the consortium has also raised awareness on this Cervere specialty's characteristics, raising market demand and consenting investments to preserve this variety.
If your mouth is starting to water at the idea of risotto ai porri (risotto with leeks) or a savoury tart filled with leeks, you should consider a trip to the annual Fiera del Porro held in November. Producers show off their skills and visitors can taste an incredible variety of leek-based dishes.
Porro di Cervere represents not only the excellence that Italy is so well-known for in terms of taste and quality, but even more so, the excellence that comes from the strong ties to traditional methods. Lovingly preserved and passed down from one generation to the next, these could never be replicated by machines.
This is what makes Porro di Cervere worth its weight in tender, white gold.
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The Acaja’s bequest
Fossano Castle
The Acaja’s bequest
Fossano Castle
Among the primary destinations of the small Piedmont city of Fossano and the surrounding area is the town’s looming medieval castle, known locally as the Castello dei Principi d’Acaja, or Castle of the Acaja Princes.
Construction on this local symbol began in the year 1314 on the initiative of Filippo I di Savoia-Acaja, member of the renowned House of Savoy, on the site of a former defensive fortification.
Following several stages of building and expansion, the edifice was completed in the year 1332.
The castle came entirely under the dominion of the Savoy family in the year 1418, when the last of the Acaja line died out. Under the direction of Amedeo, Duke of Aosta, the site was transformed into an elegant and sprawling palace, with decorated ceilings and grandiose rooms.
Though the palace experienced periods of great splendour as a royal court, by the 17th century it had been transformed into a prison and quickly fell into disrepair.
What remained of the original structure was beautifully restored in the second half of the 20th century, and today the castle serves as the seat of Fossano’s public library, as well as the state archive.
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Colour and History
The Fossano Flag-wavers
Colour and History
The Fossano Flag-wavers
The popular Principi d’Acaja Flag-wavers group was founded in 1966 and has been one of the most successful and active groups in Italy ever since.
The art of flag-throwing was originally developed for political and military purposes: through the use of flags or banners, the flag bearer would lead the troops into battle, with each movement of the flag representing a secret military code. Soon these beautiful movements began a noble form of art and today flag-waving shows are offered throughout Italy.
Flag-waving performances have been an important feature of the Fossano “Palio” since 1962 and the group became an independent organisation several years later, when their Renaissance choreographies with colourful costumes and decorative flags began attracting interest from other towns.
Since the 1990s the Fossano Flag-wavers have taken part in various competitions and shows worldwide.
Particularly noteworthy are numerous tours in Japan, China, Argentina, Canada, USA, Central and Eastern Europe as well as important exhibitions at prime sports events including the opening and closing ceremonies at the Salt Lake City and Turin Winter Olympics.
The club is in the Italian Flag-wavers premier league and was the only northern Italian group to be crowned Italian champions. Today their colours are red, white and black, the colours of the city of Fossano.
Their fascinating and powerful shows combine flawless technical abilities with historically genuine costumes and colours.
Their repertoire ranges from solo performances to pair and group shows with up to 16 performers, where technical ability is complemented by perfect coordination and choreography. Sixteenth century music played by authentic instruments is often used to accompany the flag-wavers’ movements giving the show a striking evocative value.
Wherever you live, they may perform near you but the best way to marvel and enjoy these most accomplished artists is by attending the Fossano Palio, which takes place at the end of June every year.
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A Terracotta Marvel
Fossano's Chiesa
dei Battuti Rossi
A Terracotta Marvel
Fossano's Chiesa dei Battuti Rossi
Fossano’s Santissima Trinità Church is a splendid and well-preserved example of the Piedmont Baroque style.
The structure was erected in the Piedmontese town of Fossano from the year 1730, under the direction of the architect Francesco Gallo. It is composed entirely of terracotta, and contains the original trompe l’oeil decorations of the artist Michele Antonio Milocco, the internal architectural details of Carlo and Giovanni Pietro Pozzo, and the quadratura work of Modenese artist Giuseppe Dallamano.
The church was brought to fruition by the Santissima Trinità Confraternity, also known as the battuti rossi, or “beaten reds,” in reference to the ancient practice of flagellation once common among the brothers, as well as the colour of their habits.
Indeed, to this day Fossano’s Chiesa della Santissima Trinità is most commonly known as the Chiesa dei Battuti Rossi.
The Battuti Rossi church was completed and subsequently consecrated in the year 1739; it has remained under the confraternity’s jurisdiction since then.
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Not a Wild Goose Chase!
La Giostra de l'Oca
Not a Wild Goose Chase!
La Giostra de l'Oca
La Giostra de l’Oca is a historical re-enactment that celebrates the visit, in 1585, of newlyweds Charles Emmanuel I and Catherine of Habsburg on their journey from Barcelona to Turin.
It takes place every year at the end of June and is a very popular event for Fossano citizens and tourists alike, who come to enjoy not only the final horse race but also the various activities of the fringe festival.
The palio itself consists of a horse race and archery contest.
The jockeys race in the main square in front of the Acaja castle while the archers aim at targets made up of moving geese (luckily fake ones!), hence the name Giostra dell’Oca (oca means goose in Italian).
Seven different boroughs (Borgo Vecchio, Borgo Salice, Borgo Piazza, Borgo Sant'Antonio, Borgo San Bernardo, Borgo Nuovo and Borgo Romanisio) take part in the games competing against one another.
In the days preceding the race the different boroughs organize various events to present their district and their participants.
The archers of each borough, together with their abbot and abbess, nominate the jockey in the inner court of the castle. It is this nominated jockey who rides to gain the final victory for their borough during the palio!
Before the race, visitors can enjoy historical exhibits, theatre and cinema shows, conferences, games for children and adults, fencing competitions, concerts, carriage tours, fireworks and even a Renaissance dinner.
The costume parade and the flag-waving competition are particularly fascinating.
The extensive programme is published online by the fair’s own website or available through the Fossano Tourist Office. Make sure you book in advance and plan to stay for long enough to enjoy this amazing fair at its best!
Any suggestions?
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Fat Oxen
The 'Bue Grasso' of Carrù
Fat Oxen
The 'Bue Grasso' of Carrù
The small Piedmont town of Carrù’s bue grasso, or fat oxen, is a shining example of Italy’s efforts to preserve its rich culinary heritage.
This category of animal is well defined, regulated and protected, and one may call bue grasso di Carrù only an adult, castrated, Piedmont steer raised within a very limited geographical area.
The bue grasso is celebrated annually in Carrù with a long-running fair held in mid-December.
The fair has ancient origins that can be traced to livestock markets organized in the 15th century featuring the area’s prized fat oxen. The fair in its modern form has been organized since the year 1910 and is a matter of pride for local farmers. The Fiera del Bue Grasso includes oxen parades, a jury vote, finally, the nomination of the year's Bue Grasso champion.
The event also includes the preparation en masse of a local speciality, bollito misto.
This classic dish of northern Italian cuisine is made from a mix of beef, veal and cotechino as well as a whole hen or capon, which are quite literally bolliti, or boiled together in a fragrant broth for many hours.
The substantial dish is topped with one of several traditional sauces, such as green sauce made from parsley, anchovies, breadcrumbs and garlic or a red sauce made with tomatoes, garlic, mustard and vinegar.
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Roman Heritage
Bene Vagienna and its Archaeological Sites
Roman Heritage
Bene Vagienna and its Archaeological Sites
Considered one of the most charming small towns in Italy, Bene Vagienna boasts a unique architectural harmony and two thousand years of history, providing the visitor with a great deal to experience. Among its greatest treasures are the archaeological remains of the ancient Roman city Augusta Bagiennorum, located just two kilometres outside of Bene Vagienna’s modern town centre.
Augusta Bagiennorum was originally the capital of the Bagienni tribe of Liguria.
During the mid-II century B.C., the Romans conquered the Bagienni and subsequently incorporated them into the empire.
Augusta Bagiennorum, which had a strategic location on very fertile lands, became an important urban addition to Roman settlements in the northern Piedmont region during the mid-I century B.C..
It was founded in roughly the same period as Augusta Taurinorum and Augusta Praetoria - two settlements that would become the modern-day cities of Turin and Aosta - and together with the nearby centres of Pollentia (known today as Pollenzo) and Alba Pompeia (Alba) played a significant role in the agricultural development of the surrounding territory.
Most of the Roman city was destroyed during battles dating to the VI-century A.C., and during this period a new town, Bene Vagienna, was founded on lands just to the northeast of the original settlement. Evidence of Augusta Bagiennorum’s existence were once again brought to light in the late 19th and early 20th centuries; during this period, archaeologists uncovered the remains of public baths, the forum, columns marking the city limits and even some houses.
Today visitors to the site, which has been under official archaeological protection and maintenance since the year 1933, can observe what remains of the Roman site’s town theatre, aqueducts, and even a Christian basilica, originally constructed in the fifth century B.C. but with evidence of additions dating to the eighth century B.C..
Additional relics and ruins are on display in Bene Vagienna’s archaeological museum.
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The Mystery
of the Blue Lady
The Castle of Carrù
The Mystery of the Blue Lady
The Castle of Carrù
The first official mention of this castle dates back to 1041, with a document specifically referring to a village “cum Castris et capellis” (with a castle and a chapel).
Throughout the centuries the castle and the surrounding territory were owned by some of the most powerful families in the area.
From 1250 to 1370 it belonged to the Bressano family, then to the Marquis of Monferrato and later to the Savoy, who assigned it first to the Marquis of Ceva and later to the Costa family. The Costas were lords of Carrù until 1872 and completely rebuilt the castle in the 15th century. In 1872 the castle was sold to the Curreno family.
Now owned by the Banca Alpi Marittime, the edifice was fully restructured in the 1980s to become the bank’s headquarters. From outside the building looks like a late Renaissance palace, with some remaining medieval elements reminding us of its original defensive role.
The interior reflects its main function as a fashionable country holiday and hunting retreat for the Costa family throughout the 17th century.
It contains beautiful eighteenth-century Piedmontese and Genoese paintings, impressive fourteenth-century wooden ceilings and a stunning baroque room called the “Alcove Room", which has a wooden arch and painted stuccos. Later enhancements include the elegant garden, completed in the 19th century.
One of the most famous paintings in the castle is the portrait of a woman dressed in blue, known as “La Dama in blu”.
The subject of the painting is Paola Christina del Carretto, the wife of Gerolamo Costa. In the portrait, she is carrying an arrow and is depicted as Diana, the goddess of the hunt, because of her love for this sport. Her passion proved fatal as one day, while out hunting, she was shot and killed. The murderer was never found: according to legend, every first Friday of the month she walks out of the portrait and goes in search of her unknown assassin.
This story inspired Bruno Vallepiano’s historical mystery La Dama Blu, unluckily only available in Italian. Delicious treats Baci della Dama Blu by Pasticceria Durando are also inspired by this popular legend… and worth a stop!
The castle is not open to the public but various events such as concerts, medieval fairs and food shows are organised by the bank and the township of Carrù on the castle’s grounds.
Contact the tourist Office or check the bank's website for more details.
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Hi, Pleased to M(eat) You.
'Casa della Piemontese' Museum
Hi, Pleased to M(eat) You.
'Casa della Piemontese' Museum
The Casa della Piemontese is Carrù’s most recent tribute to its most famous product: meat.
Opened at the end of 2014, the museum reveals the secrets of fassone piemontese beef, one of the leanest and most appreciated meat varieties in Italy.
The museum is in fact in a house, hence the name (casa); it offers a multimedia itinerary through the history of raising cattle in the area, providing a thorough background from its ancient origins to the most modern techniques, as well as precious information about country life in the past. The museum also houses a rich collection of documents, photos, videos and interviews as well as farming tools and related objects. You can also find a reproduction of an old stable.
A staircase lined with computer monitors showing meat stock raising images and the sound of cow bells will lead you to the upper floor, as if you were ascending to higher pastures. This is the degustazioni room, where you can actually taste the meat and gather information about ways how to preserve, cook and enjoy it.
By booking a “cooking and tasting” visit you will be able to observe competent cooks while they prepare meat dishes for you.
The visit also provides information on the Italian meat certification system, the different cuts and the nutritional properties of Piemontese beef and veal.
The museum is only open on selected days each month, so be sure to book your visit in advance. The museum is open on the second and fourth Sunday of each month, with two guided tours at 11.00 am and 3.00 pm.
Admission is 6€ per person and 4€ when in groups of at least 15 participants. Booking is advised for the tour, compulsory for the tasting.
A curiosity: the museum also organises events to promote Piedmontese meat and local products, so if you're lucky you could get the chance to participate!
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A Bastion of History
Bastione di Fossano
A Bastion of History
Bastione di Fossano
The oldest monument in the city of Fossano, the Bastione di Fossano was once part of a much larger structure which included an imposing wall of 2400 meters, moats, five platforms, as well as other fortifications including: Il Bastione Salice, Il Bastione dell’Annunziata and Il Castello degli Acaia di Fossano.
Much of Fossano’s history revolves around its fortifications, which were the heart of city life for centuries.
Il Bastione Nord, as it was originally named, but simply known today as Il Bastione, was first used for defense and military purposes during the 16th century.
Later, in the 18th century, its military role took a backseat and the fortification was revitalized by the architect Nicolis di Robilant, who designed an ornamental staircase and a tree-lined area at the top of the structure. A century later, the Bastione would become the lively setting where the citizens of Fossano gathered to both see and participate in song and dance performances.
During the last World War, the interior spaces of the fortification were reduced to being used as an anti-aircraft refuge.
The subject of hot debate when the city contemplated whether it should be preserved or torn down, the edifice was fortunately saved not only from its bleak fate, but was also restored in 1997. Thanks to the hard work and efforts of the Fossano Council for Culture and the Arts as well as the generous contribution of the financial institution Fondazione Cassa di Risparmio di Fossano, the fortification was given a second life. The bank later went on to enhance the area bringing the defensive path back to light and relinking it to the castle.
Today the area surrounding the fortification is dedicated to all the fallen soldiers of Fossano: the bronze statue designed by Carlo Mollino and Adriano Alloati stands both to commemorate the soldiers and to symbolize the strength and the heart of Fossano and its citizens.
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Grandfather
We wouldn’t be here today without our stubbornness and the support of these Italian companies and institutions.
