The highest mountain of the Cottian Alps, Monviso dominates the landscape with its unique shape and gives birth to Italy’s longest river, the Po. This King of Stone, as Monviso is known in Italy, is a heaven of untouched flora and enchanting fauna, making it an ideal discovery-destination for nature-lovers and peace-seekers alike.
Riserva del
Monviso
Riserva del
Monviso
The Alps’ Pyramid
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Curiosity
Natural Beauty Minus The Hype
Lake Fiorenza
Every guidebook talks about This Lake or that lake, but did you know that Lake Fiorenza is considered to be one of the most beautiful areas among the alpine lakes of Monviso?
Dominated by the presence of Monviso and the surrounding foothills of the Alpi Cozie, the lake is fed by the melting snow and various streams from the mountain.
Part of the Parco del Po Cuneese, Lake Fiorenza with its considerable depth (during certain periods of the year its waters can be more than 15 meters deep) is home to many species of fish and aquatic insects.
At the headwaters, if you're lucky, you might spot the rare black salamander.
This, as well as other fauna and flora which the lake is blessed with, is one of the reasons that contributed to the proposed project to protect the area in and around the lake.
Excursions and visits to the lake are well worth the effort.
Because the last 4 km of roadway that lead to the lake can be very narrow and somewhat arduous, it is highly suggested to visit during the summer months. The climb is steep, but if you decide to go through with it, you'll be rewarded with a colourful array of flowers that will make the journey to the top seem much shorter. A tip: bring sunscreen with you.
If you’re looking for a trip that assures all the beauty nature has to offer, but with less hype, be sure to add Lake Fiorenza to your bucket list!
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A Timeless Mountain Community
The Hamlet of Bigorie
A Timeless Mountain Community
The Hamlet of Bigorie
In a country such as Italy that is well known for its high population density, it may be difficult to imagine that truly isolated spots still exist.
And yet, those looking for an alternative to the beautiful chaos of the metropolises of Rome, Milan or Turin will be stunned by communities such as Oncino, located high in the Po Valley in Italy’s Western Alpine region, near the border with France.
This miniscule town has a population of just 78 inhabitants, a mere 1/20 of its size 100 years ago.
Indeed, the profound tranquillity that may attract visitors to a place like Oncino is in fact an indication of the economic hardship the community and its inhabitants face. In an area once heavily dependent on agriculture, few opportunities remain to maintain one’s livelihood in the modern economy.
Oncino shares a fate similar to many Alpine mountain communities, which over the last century have faced significant depopulation as people move to larger towns and cities in search of jobs and greater stability.
Despite the practical difficulties of living in a place like Oncino, it is an area that offers a great deal to lovers of the mountains and the outdoors, who in these mountain borgos may explore fascinating traces of a past still visible today.
Among the numerous options available to hikers and cross-country skiers in the way of mountain trails, visitors may want to consider a hike that begins among a tiny collection of houses known as Le Bigorie, just outside of Oncino’s centre.
Shepherds who brought their herds to the area to graze between the months of May and early October once used these huts for their shelter during the summer.
Today, three remaining local families still use the Bigorie for this same purpose.
Paths and dirt roads built and used by local farmers to move their herds provide a well-trodden option that allows excursionists to easily explore the area’s considerable natural beauty. Local officials have also played a fundamental role in recognizing the value of these historical borgos, designating funds to clean and maintain a series of well-marked trails that reach them and posting historical information about the area along the paths.
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Eat Your Milk
'Tomino' cheese of the Saluzzese Valleys
Eat Your Milk
'Tomino' cheese of the Saluzzese Valleys
In the valleys around the town of Saluzzo you’ll find a cheese that has the unique characteristic of containing all the qualities of fresh, sweet milk in a solid form.
Said to be the result of the legacy of experts who passed down the production process from one generation to the next, Tomino delle Valli Saluzzesi (PAT) is a soft, moist, rindless cheese produced in the area of Saluzzo and Monviso.
This tomino doesn’t require a complicated production method, yet the process must be highly precise in order for the end product to be like the original Tomino delle Valli Saluzzesi.
Pasteurized milk is brought to a temperature between 33°-35° Celsius and rennet (usually calf) is added. After about 30 minutes, the curd is cut into 4-5 cm. strips, and then, just a few minutes later, recut into 3-4 cm strips. The cheese is then very gently placed in forms and allowed to cool at a temperature around 4° Celsius.
The cheese has a very soft, fragile consistency and a beautiful, bright white colour reminiscent of the milk used in its production.
Characterised by a low aromatic intensity, it is ideal for anyone who prefers a cheese without any decisive aromas. A curiosity: unlike other cheeses, Tomino delle Valli Saluzzesi is rarely salted. If it is, it is salted only once the cheese has dried.
If you want to enjoy this tomino at its peak, it is best to eat it the day it is purchased or, at most, within two days. You can enjoy it as is, in all its melt-in-your-mouth goodness or, if you prefer, it can be served with mild olive oil and a sprinkle of herbs or spices.
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The Murmur of Tradition
The Hamlet of Chianale
The Murmur of Tradition
The Hamlet of Chianale
At the bottom of the Val Varaita, on the border of France, lies a village where the scent of the Alps fills every breath you take. Borgo Chianale, in the province of Cuneo, is divided into two parts by the river Varaita; the two sides are connected at the heart of the village by a stone bridge.
The bridge is located near a small square that overlooks the ancient church of Sant’Antonio. The church is just one example of the architectural beauty found in this area with its Romanesque portal and an interior that features elaborately decorated transverse arches. Considering that the area was once well known for its woodwork, this comes as no surprise.
At the central axis of Borgo Chianale you’ll find Casa Martinet. The remains of a once Calvinist temple, Casa Martinet stands as a reminder that Borgo Chianale was for most of the 1600s, until the Edict of Nantes was revoked, the only area of the valley where there was religious freedom.
In addition to its churches, the architectural gems of Borgo Chianale can also be seen in the family homes.
Designed to face and resist the rigors of the local climate, when seen from above, the houses with their characteristic roofs of loess give the village a sense of the charm and close-knit community one would expect to find in a small Italian mountain village.
Borgo Chianale also has something to offer for the bongustaio, the “foodie” in all of us. Local products include honey and a variety of alpine cheeses. The cheeses are used in two typical dishes: ravioli filled with local cheese and gnocchi made with rye flour that are served in a sauce of local cheese and fresh-made mountain butter.
Borgo Chianale is a village where the poetry and charm of the area inebriates the visitor. The natural, pristine beauty of the valley, the pride that still swells in the hearts of the few remaining residents are what make it part of the club of the most beautiful villages of Italy (Club dei Borghi più Belli d’Italia). A beauty that is not only seen, but taken in by all the senses whilst listening to the murmur of tradition which lingers in the air.
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Starry mountain pass
Colle dell'Agnello
Starry mountain pass
Colle dell'Agnello
Colle dell' Agnello is a winding alpine pass that runs between the Cottian Alps at 2748 metres. It is the third highest alpine pass in Europe, and the tarmac road was only laid in the 1970's – a testament to the area's wilderness.
It is a stunning corner of northwest Italy, very close to the French border. The settings couldn't be more dramatic: the pass is surrounded by 3000 meter peaks that toy with a visitor's sense of perspective.
From the road, visitors have wonderful views of the western face of the 3842m Monviso, the angular alpine peak that was supposedly the inspiration for the Paramount logo.
The pass offers a unique and lung-busting challenge to cycling fanatics.
The 25 km pass has an average gradient of 10 degrees and has been included on stages of past editions of both the Tour de France and the Giro d'Italia.
The area also contains many beautiful and less crowded routes for Alpinists who can find welcome respite in the area’s Rifugi, or alpine huts, which offer warm beds, local wine and rustic trattoria-style food.
But it's not just outdoor types who can enjoy the beauty of the pass.
It is a great spot for some carefree country motoring and is popular among local stargazers, as the atmospheric conditions and lack of light pollution offer some of the most pristine skies in Europe!
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The Itch to Explore
The Rio Martino Cave
The Itch to Explore
The Rio Martino Cave
La Grotta di Rio Martino, located in Crissolo, is one of the most important caves in the Piedmont region. Carved to the depth of 1,530 metres below sea level by the sub glacial streams of the huge glacier that formed the Po Valley, the cave is a stunning 530 metres long.
In 2009, the town of Crissolo began working to improve the safety conditions of the lower level of the cave; these improvements included walkways to encourage visits by novice explorers, families and students.
At the end of the 530 metre walk you can see the breathtaking Pissai waterfall and its over 40 metres of cascading water.
During visits you can also see a considerable number of stalagmites and stalactites, which were formed by the deposit of calcium carbonate due to the erosive action of the water.
The upper level presents over 300 metres of cave surrounded by salt, wells, and a series of interconnected tunnels, making the cave one of the most important areas from a hydrological standpoint.
However, this level is considered too difficult for amateur explorers and it is unreachable to anyone without adequate equipment and an expert skill level.
Rio Martino cave also represents an important ecological value since it hosts a rare form of wildlife.
Live inside the cave are seven different species of protected bats including the Barbastella Barbastellus (the cave contains the largest known count of this species in Italy) and the Horseshoe bat, just to name a few. The cave is also home to a number of invertebrates and an abundant colony of shellfish.
If you’re starting to get the itch to explore, La Grotta di Rio Martino is open to visitors from April to October and is closed for the remaining months, in particular for visitor safety reasons and to ensure the protection of the bats during hibernation.
Visitors are required to dress appropriately because the temperature inside is typically around 5°C with a humidity of 100%. The time required to visit the entire lower level, including the Pissai waterfall, is usually about 2 hours.
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A River Runs Through It
Po Cuneese Natural Park
A River Runs Through It
Po Cuneese Natural Park
The Parco Naturale del Po Cuneese is a UNESCO protected area that safeguards the area around the source of Italy's longest river, the Po. The Po winds 652 km across Italy, from the base of the Giant Monviso in Italy's northwestern corner to the Adriatic coast, and the park protects the 7,709 hectares surrounding the first part of the river's course.
The park's range covers the summit of Monviso at 3841 meters, descending to the Casalgrasso plain to just 250 meters above sea level, offering visitors the chance to explore a huge variety of landscapes.
The River Po itself springs from the ground at Pian del Re below Monviso, at an altitude of 2,020 meters above sea level at Pian del Re.
The boggy area at Pian del Re is an interesting habitat, and contains many unique species of plants and flowers that have survived from the glacial era, such as the unique alpine Salamander.
In its first 11 km the River Po descends an impressive 700 meters in altitude, giving rise to wonderful variety of different landscapes and an incredible biodiversity.
Mountain goats such as the chamois are found among the conifers at higher altitudes, while roe deer wander through the broadleaf trees of the plain.
But the area's beauty is not simply natural, it contains many sites of historical and architectural significance too.
In the area around Crissolo, the first town the Po traverses, has a rich human history and visitors can see the first ever alpine tunnel dating back to 1480, as well as many fine historic buildings boasting wonderful religious frescoes.
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A Living Museum
The 'Centro Visite Alevé'
A Living Museum
The 'Centro Visite Alevé'
The Bosco dell’Alevè (the Alevè forest) spreads over almost 850 hectares in the Varaita valley, through the districts of Sampeyre, Casteldelfino and Pontechianale.
It is the largest forest of its kind, being a pure Pinus cembra forest, also known as Swiss pine, Austrian stone pine or just Stone pine. This particular pine is exclusive to the Alps and Carpathian Mountains of central Europe and has been known since Roman times.
Because of the unique characteristics of the Pinus cembra, the Alevè forest has been defined as a Site of Community Importance by the European Commission Habitats Directive.
The Po River Park, which confines with the Alevè forest, has decided, along with the region of Piedmont and the district of Casteldelfino, to set up a museum or visitor’s centre in order to promote the Alevè forest. A full size diorama of the forest has been set up, where the visitor has the sensation of actually adventuring into the woods. Among the dense pines, branches brush against your face.
In the greenery of the forest, you can catch sight of some of the most important animal species in the forest, among which squirrel, hare, and boar. In the tree tops you can spot woodpeckers, red crossbills, tits and above all the spotted nutcracker, which owes its fortune to the forest.
On the backdrop, a rock wall harbours chamois, black grouse and partridge. In a cleft, a magnificent example of the European eagle-owl stands out.
Following the trail, you reach the far side of the diorama where an obligatory passage leads you to a reconstruction of the Lake Bagnour.
The lake unfolds with the forest and the mountain on the backdrop. Not far away, a roe deer quenches its thirst, while a bunch of marmots gather together on a steep slope on the right off the trail. Many other details enrich the diorama, where even the sun’s rays peering through the treetops are magically evoked by a skilful play of light.
The museum is only open in certain times of the year, so be sure to book your visit in advance.
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The Visible Mountain
Monviso
The Visible Mountain
Monviso
On a clear day, the Monte Viso, or Monviso, as it is more commonly known in Italy, can be seen from far away - some say even from the spires of the Cathedral in Milan!
What makes the mountain so easily recognisable is its pyramid-like shape and the fact that it is, with its 3,842 MASL, the highest peak of the Cottian Alps.
Situated in the province of Cuneo in Piedmont, not far from the French border, the mountain hosts the headwaters of the river Po (the longest river in Italy), which start out at the Pian del Re in the Valle Po (Po valley). The source springs from the glaciers and lakes of the Monviso, which then fathers an actual mountain torrent.
The mountain was first climbed on August 30, 1861 by a team of English and French mountaineers, followed two years later by no other than an expedition headed by the Biellese minister of finance, Quintino Sella.
If, by any chance, you’re keen on following in their footsteps, the best months to do so are July, August and September.
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The Eye of Fire
Piropo Mineral
The Eye of Fire
Piropo Mineral
Pyrope is an extremely rare mineral, and can be found only in very few places on the globe. Some of these places are deposits in the lower Po valley, where the mineral appears in an almost pure composition and where there is plenty of it! In fact, this seems to be the only area where nearly pure pyrope can be found, as it is often mixed with another element; almandine.
Pyrope belongs to the garnet family and the name derives from Greek, meaning “eye of fire” because of the intense red colour.
In Martiniana Po, a town in the province of Cuneo, these gems of nature take on exceptional features. Here, specimens of incredible dimensions have been found, some weighing more than 8 kilograms! Because of their extraordinary sizes, in the past these minerals were considered to be only “strange round stones”, until a certain Professor Chopen identified their exact composition and origin.
They seem to form at a depth of more than 100 kilometres, emerging from the underground due to tectonic movement. The colour is usually pinkish and the composition is almost pure, having inclusions of other rare minerals such as annabergite, magnesiodumortierite, bearthite, coesite and rutile.
The dedicated museum, named Museo del Piropo, is rightly situated in Martiniana Po and offers a unique occasion to get to know more about this precious mineral and its surroundings. Before visiting check the museum’s website for opening times, as it opens only on selected days.
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Homage to Tradition
The Craft and Costume Museum
Homage to Tradition
The Craft and Costume Museum
An ex capuchin convent, The Museo del Costume e dell’Artigianato is a museum dedicated to the local folk costumes and the art of textile craftsmanship.
A large room hosts many different stands and display cabinets dedicated to the exposition of traditional dresses of local production.
Bonnets, bustiers and waistcoats, laces, long and colourful holiday pinafores or simple rustic shirts and blouses help appreciate the different stages this mountain community has experienced.
The costumes, the accessories and the many textile products from Chianale represent a revealing image of an extremely solid and embedded local identity, which manifests itself at its strongest during holidays or festive occasions.
The women’s costumes, especially, stand out as remarkable elements of differentiation.
The details of a woman’s dress were coded information about many a thing; her social and family position, her age, whether or not she was in mourning, and even if it was a working day or a Sunday!
A series of splendid images from the olden days accompany the visitor in a backwards journey through the history of Chianale, disclosing all aspects of everyday-life in this enchanting corner of the Alps.
The museum is open during summer months and on selected days, so be sure to book your visit in advance.
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An Apple a Day
The Grey Apple of Torriana
An Apple a Day
The Grey Apple of Torriana
The Mela Renetta Grigia di Torriana is an apple variety named after both its characteristic rust-coloured skin and the town in which it originates from.
Its cultivation began in the hamlet of Torriana di Barge (a small town between Saluzzo and Monviso) and, in a relatively short time, its popularity spread to the point where it was being exported as far as Egypt.
This variety features a flattened shape, a rough-textured peel, and a creamy-white flesh.
The pulp is very firm and has a tart yet very appealing taste, making it ideal for sweets and other baking recipes.
Often referred to as “the queen of apples”, this nickname seems more than justified since this apple isn’t your run-of-the-mill fruit, especially from a nutritional point of view. It contains a high and well-balanced composition of vitamins and minerals such as fiber, potassium, and vitamin C.
These apples also contain a large quantity of polyphenols and antioxidants, both of which are said to help slow down the aging of cells and the onset of various diseases.
Mele Renette of Torriana are typically harvested in October and can be preserved well into February, even outside of cold storage, thanks to the hardiness of this variety.
Because the apple trees from which these apples come from are so resistant to harsh conditions, the Mele Renette Grigie are also extremely well-suited for organic production.
Although the production of this apple has decreased in recent years, it certainly hasn’t been forgotten and in 2002 a consortium was established to protect and promote the queen of apples. The variety now bears the PAT label (Prodotto Agroalimentare Tradizionale), which not only protects the producers, but reassures the consumer as well.
If it’s true what they say about an apple a day, the Mela Renetta Grigia di Torriana and its endless variety of recipes from appetizers to desserts offer plenty of opportunities to test the theory!
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