Procida's Fishermen's Borgo

Marina Corricella

The Italian island of Procida – one of the smallest and least touristy of the Flegrean Islands off the coast of Naples – is celebrated for its authentic feel, especially in comparison to its more popular and highly frequented neighbours, Capri and Ischia. 

Perhaps the most picturesque corner of this miniscule (3.7 km²) territory is Marina Corricella, a small patch of waterfront suggestively framed by pastel-hued fishermen’s houses and characterized by a unique 17^th-century architecture.

The borgo is not accessible by car, and visitors may reach Corricella only by sea or on foot.

It is an ideal place to escape the crowds and linger over a long meal next to the water, perhaps after exploring the nearby Terra Murata section of the island.

The secluded, seaside position and evocative architectural framework have long captured the hearts and attention of foreigners and Italians alike. 

Corricella and other spots on Procida have provided the backdrop for several cinematic and literary productions, including Michael Radford’s Il Postino, Anthony Minghella’s The Talented Mr. Ripley, and the book L’isola d’Arturo (Arthur’s Island) by Elsa Morante.

A Tip: if you have time, make sure you stop for long enough to see Corricella's colours both with sunshine and at sunset. Maybe go for a walk in the Terra Murata part of the island; the spectacle is worth the wait!

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A Mysterious Celebration

Procida's Good Friday Procession

Many Italian towns and villages hold traditional celebrations on Good Friday - the small island of Procida is no exception. 

What makes Procida's Processione dei Misteri unique, aside from its ancient history (the first parade took place in 1627), is its strong community participation: over a third of the island's population takes part in the procession, overwhelming the tiny streets and neighbourhoods with a dense crowd. 

A fascinating three-hour long parade, the processione follows a specific sequence - same as the one followed over the last centuries. 

After the commencement trumpet is played, flags representing the various religious brotherhoods are carried in parade, followed by the "misteri" - floats representing scenes from the Bible, carried by local youths. 

A curiosity: in the last few years, floats have also been created to represent modern themes, including the terror of drug use. 

The floats are then followed by flower girls and by small babies dressed in black, carried by their fathers. The statue of Mary in Mourning precedes the statue of the Dead Christ, carved by Carmine Lantricene in 1728, which closes the parade. 

Introduced on the island by the religious brotherhood of the Turchini, the parade is perhaps one of the most evocative events on Procida; if you're on the island on Good Friday, don't miss out on this historical procession filled with dense and ever-current metaphors. 

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A Volcanic Paradise

Vivara Islet

Connected to Procida by a small pedestrian bridge, the tiny islet of Vivara is a naturalistic jewel in the Gulf of Naples.

The island, of volcanic origin, is an uncontaminated half-moon of earth lying in pristine waters and protects a multitude of paths that wind through its abundant vegetation. 

A sought-after destination of environmentalists, biologists and archaeologists, Vivara gets its name from the Latin Vivarium, meaning ‘nursery’. 

A 5-star hotel for wild rabbits and other small animals, the island is also known for the large quantity of bird species that can be found perched on its trees. More than 200 resident and migratory birds have been recorded on the islet, setting a record considering the small extension of the strip of land.

Today uninhabited, Vivara was the first island of those in the Gulf of Naples to be inhabited during the 16^th century. The island has been a protected naturalistic oasis since 1974 and was declared a natural Reserve of the State in 2002.

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Procida's Spiritual Heart

Abbazia di San Michele Arcangelo

Located in the oldest section of Procida Island, the Abbazia di San Michele Arcangelo or Abbey of Saint Michael the Archangel, sits atop the Terra Murata hill, 91 metres above sea level. 

Terra Murata towers defensively over the rest of the island and was once the site of a fortress, a monastery and a prison. 

Today, while other major structures in the Terra Murata area lay in ruins, the abbey is still open to the public. However, a chronic lack of funding threatens the regular upkeep of San Michele, once the cultural and spiritual heart of the island.

The abbey was established in 1026 by monks from the Benedictine order, and has undergone innumerable renovations and restructurings over the centuries. 

Visible in the modern-day structure are a 16^th century portal, three 19^th century chapels, a 17^th century gold-adorned wooden roof and an ancient baptistery that was perhaps once devoted to pagan cults.

The abbey’s main church features numerous artworks, many of which depict Procida’s saviour and the site’s namesake, Saint Michael the Archangel, including a work by Luigi Garzi on the church ceiling.

Whether for its rich artistic and architectural patrimony, or for the unparalleled views from the paths that lead to the Terra Murata and the site of the church, the Abbazia di San Michele is sure to be highlight of any visit to the island of Procida.

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Terra Murata

At 91 metres, the Terra Murata area of Procida is the highest point of the island. 

With its narrow streets and small houses, children playing in the streets and clothes hanging out to dry, every corner of this part of Procida smells of authenticity.

Be it because everything is so crammed together, be it because of the typical architecture that sets these streets apart from all others, the general feel when strolling in the alleys of Terra Murata is that of walking among a warm, close-knit community.

Although a trait typical of most small, sea-bordering towns, bigger islands such as Capri and Ischia often lose this genuine appeal when swarmed by tourists. Procida - and the Terra Murata area in particular - don’t seem to suffer severe 'touristisation' yet.

Walking along the small cobbled streets of the ancient fortified center reach Via del Borgo. 

There, take a look at one of the typical three-storey tufa houses of the town: external stairs were used to reach the upper floors of the house.

Terra Murata overlooks the sea, and is one of the best places on the island to admire a breathtaking view over the Gulf of Naples. 

Built for defence purposes, Terra Murata still shows traces of its military past: two long-range cannons from the 18th century continue to gaze over the sea, defending the fortified borgo.

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